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It should be a 10 ga. Remember that you can not have too big of a wire. You can have too small of one.

If you want to end up using Painless we have a dealer there in Tempe. Arizona TPI phone number (480)921-2500.

In the time vs. money side you would be better off buying a universal type harness like this one from painless http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/Keywordsearch.php?partsearch=10127 and buying the terminals through either Del city or through your local parts house and repinning your...

That is correct. The Napa part number for the ignition switch is a KS6611 if that helps you any.

So your saying the ignition module was pulling your cranking voltage down?

That may be a partial issue but that is in no way why he is only getting 3 or 4 volts to the coil. I would also check to make sure that you are getting 12v. to the coil while you are cranking it. This would be coming from the brown wire going to the coil side of the ballast resistor. It is also...

You have a bad ballast resistor! The standard part number for the ballast you should use is a RU-11. Carquest sells standard. If not Go to Napa and get their Echlin version. Don't get the SB version (cheaper line) and what ever you do do NOT buy it at Autozone!

Also check to see what kind of voltage you are getting to the blue wire that goes to the ballast resistor and to the voltage regulator for the alternator. They should all be 12 v. with the key on. If not then we need to look at the bulk head connector and or the ignition switch.

As was asked before. How many volts. are going to the coil. While I would love to see you use some of our products (Painless) but it may not be the answer to the problem. I would first start by checking the resistance across the ballast resistor and let us know what you come up with. You should...

I agree. Grounds are 90% of most peoples problems. ALWAYS start there and then start chasing a short.

Something like this is how its going to get wired!

Shoot me an email at [email protected] and I'll send you a diagram that should help you a little better.

Check your ground cables! Battery to engine and engine to chassis. Seen way too many ground problems cause things like this. Start there.

If you have any issues you can email me at [email protected] or you can call me at the office (817)244-6212 ext. 1016 and I'll help you in any way possible. Jason

More than likely that was either the horn relay or the Key buzzer set up. None of that will be needed with the Painless harness. The horn relay is already in the fuse block and the harness doesn't cover any of the key buzzer functions.

It normally freaks people out when they open the box. There is a lot of wire in a small area. Mount the fuse block and route the sections to where they roughly go and it will start getting a lot easier from there. Wire everything a section at a time. Don't try to make this one thing work before...

That is correct. This is still a universal harness that is correct color codes for typical mopar. We are working on trying to build more specific harness' for Mopar.

NO!Don't try it. It will cook that thing in a heart beat.

This harness will cover you from the head lights to the tail lights and everything in between. Here is a link to the instal manual. We are in the process of redoing the manual right now but will give you a good idea. http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/90542Manual.pdf

When we build the harness we will give the option to run the ammeter and when I write the manual (if I do it) there will be a caution about the effects of running one. I will discourage the use of one but have to keep a provision in there for those that insist that they must be run. There are a...

Actually we do have a harness that uses the Mopar color code. Its part number 10127 Universal Mopar Harness. It does include headlight pigtails, typical Mopar headlight switch connector and a block off plate to cover the original bulkhead connector opening and is drilled for the grommet to feed...

If all you are trying to do is the under dash harness do not use our harness. It is to rewire the whole car. You will be better going through Year One and getting a replacement underdash harness.

If you ever have questions using a Painless harness you can feel free to ask me. I can help you with any questions you may have.

M&H builds the wiring for YearOne. Here is a link to their website. They can not sell direct though so don't ask them! LOL. They are exlclusive through year one. www.wiringharness.com will get you there. They can build what they don't already list many times.

And how many more MSD boxes are out there then the rest? The more you have out there the more possiblities there are for errors. Be it problems with the box or the instalation of the box and wiring. But you would probably be right. But I bet there are more than twice as many MSD boxes out there...

I have yet to use an FBO system. I have used MSD for years and I have never had a problem. Rumblefish and I talked about this on another thread a while ago. I have run across people that have had issues with them and can't figure out why. I've used everything from a 6A box to a 10 and never had...

I've got piles of that laying around here! LOL.:geek: I think I talked to you about this at one time didn't I?

Draggin, That is something that I added to the kit after I believe I talked to you and a couple of others that were asking about what to do about the hole in the fire wall. So I took a plate we had here in some other harnesses and checked it on my Demon for fitment. It was perfect for the...

GTX back at you!