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Unfortunately, by the time the idiot light comes on it's too late. That is why I put mechanical gauges in all of my cars.

Possibly the IVR Instrument Voltage Regulator. Somebody here makes and sells a solid state version.

Hang the gauges under the dash, keeping the originals.

I don't trust the "idiot" lights on any vehicle. All of my cars have mechanical gauges to keep track of everything.

What TMM said!

Look at the cold cranking amperage and amp hour rating, and make your decision from there.

Those were also used to put 8 track players in cars years back.

FSM, a test light, a VOM and start chasing wires.

Take it to you local parts store and get it tested, that will give you and idea +/- as to what the output is.

Yep, lesson learned. See what the PO has screwed up first. LOL

Yes, buy the adapter. Read the instructions and follow them to the letter, do not take the chance of the tach not operating correctly.

Being as the car and most of it's components are 50+ years old, there is no telling how many hands have been on it or, what all of those hands have done and/or changed. In my opinion, if the fuse block looks to far gone you may want to see if another can be found or yours cleaned up to the point...

It says "68 Barracuda" in the post.

Are positive it is the tail lights? Disconnect the brake light switch at the brake pedal to see what happens. Also go to Mymopar.com and download a FSM.

Depending upon the state emission laws, a 50 year old car may not need any of the early pollution stuff.

Yea, here we go again trying to diagnose problems with a crystal ball. The problem is, I can't see it from my house. LMAO

Go to MyMopar and get a FSM and research the wiring on the ignition switch.

TT5.9 sent me a diagram he found and I was able to figure out which wires went to M + and M- on the 7AL 2 box.

TT5.9, that helped immensely. It's too bad that a large ignition manufacturer such as MSD can't get their stuff in one sock when you call them. Thanks

I just do not want to take a chance and fry anything in the distributor of mt 7AL 2, I have enough problems as it is. LOL

I have an 8860 harness, it has a GRAY wire and a BLUE wire. There is no VIOLET or GREEN!

But that still doesn't answer the question as to which wire goes to the M+ and the M- on the 7AL 2.

I have the instruction sheet, I've been to the website, I've called MSD, to no avail. The cable I received from them is gray and dark blue, my distributor has a black with a red trace and a black.

I'm in the process of changing over the ignition system in my Demon. I have had an MSD 8534 distributor on the shelf for about 10 years and I want to install it and hook it to my 7AL 2, which has been in the car since it was built many years ago. I ordered an interface cable and need information...

Just FYI, Rock Auto shows a listing for the switch.

Bad dimmer switch, you may be able to take it apart and fix it. It's probably corroded up internally.

Harbor freight has an inexpensive set of the jewelers screwdrivers.

I'm with RRR, getting a FSM would benefit people greatly.

I'll try one one my race car once you get them assembled.

Either the inside or outside dragon tooth washers will solve most all painted sheet metal to painted sheet metal grounding. I keep both on the trailer for the race car, just in case.