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Things that make you feel stupid. So as it turns out, despite getting spark at the plugs it apparently wasn't good enough. I couldn't remember how long it had been since I had done plugs/wires on the truck, since it now has a new distributor, cap, and rotor. I decided to put new copper plugs and...

Carb is squirting fuel, has a little less then half a tank of fuel. Carb is less then a year old. Ran fine until this latest bout of no starts.

My other thread disappeared, this issue cropped up again a few months ago. Still fighting it. I have the timing close, my timing light indicates that #1 is getting spark, new distributor, correct voltage at the coil during start/run sequence (at least the same as my Dart and it fires no...

I usually yank the distributor to do this.

I detected a bit of shaft play on the top bushing close to the rotor. It'll probably need to be rebuilt soon.

It was the airgap in the distributor. Whoda thought. I pulled the distributor, someone on another board suggested I check it. Was at .030 when it should be at .006. I wonder how it got out of spec. Stabbed the dizzy back in and it fired right up. Go figure. Thanks for all the ideas guys!

Right before I left for work I remembered I have a spare ignition switch, so I swapped it out, but it still wouldn't fire. Although I might had cooked the ecm when I jumpered the coil to the battery, so I'll need to test it before I push any further.

It see's 9.6 volts with the dmm on the + side of the coil, and the - side of the battery while cranking. I'm getting good voltage at the resistor, better then my Dart. I was thinking a ground problem since it was so intermittent before now. I had a problem with the dash lights acting all...

I have the + on my dmm on the + of the coil and the - of the dmm to the - of the coil.

Years ago when I had a Painful wiring harness in my 70 I pulled the drivers side vent box and made a block off plate that I hung the fuse block from. Only downside to this setup is you have account for the water that can collect on the block off plate.

Well it isn't the wiring to the coil. I went through the trouble of cutting out the plug and the voltage didn't change. Only then did I decide to check what my Dart does and it only see's 4 volts in run, and 5.25 volts while cranking. It fires off with no trouble with less voltage. Something I...

Have one in all my rides (except the 67). It is the only battery I run. My Dart has one in it that I put in my truck in early 2002 and it still cranks the car over every time.

Ah, no I haven't checked that one yet. Was going to mess with it some more today before work, but my alarm didn't go off. :-P

I checked the voltages at the column and bulkhead, they were fine, no serious drop. I also had the bulkhead connector apart a couple of times and there was only minor corrosion on it that I scraped off. The truck spins over fine, I just don't have consistent spark. I verified this with my...

Oh my bad (stupid brain). It is an 84 D150, pretty much the same ignition setup as an A body.

My truck has been giving me fits lately with randomly not having spark. It has finally gotten to the point where it isn't firing up at all. While trying to track down the problem today I found the coil is seeing 5 volts in the run position, but only 8 while cranking. The contacts in the plugs on...

Cables are good, I checked them with the DMM and they measure out fine. Checked the connector, squeezed down the connections to get good contact. Red wire gets 11.5 volts with the ignition in the "run" position. This doesn't change with my wiggling it and trying to put stress on it...

Think I found it, the red field wire is shorting to ground. Won't have time to investigate much this weekend since I won't have a day off.

Welcome to my hell. Trying to find a good regulator has been like looking for a needle in a haystack.

Man I just can't seem to get a good one. Got two Mopar ones from Summit and it still charges @ 16V+. Went down to the local parts store, and that one won't let it above 12.06V.

Cool, that's what I figured. I'll check it out. Thanks

Battery is a two month old Optima Red top that reads 12.4 when disconnected. I hope its not the problem.

On my 84 Ram Charger, bad alt or bad voltage regulator? Thanks EDIT: That's supposed to be charging. :p

Well I bypassed the burnt plug and soldered everything direct. Hopefully this fixes it permanently. Currently it is still starting and running, I took the opportunity to ditch some unused vacuum lines and hardware that was just cluttering up the engine bay.

I'm running a Year One harness in my 70, it's great.

Went out with the DMM today to see what the coil was seeing, and it is getting 6.19 volts in the run position, and about 7 volts while cranking. Figure this though, while I was checking it the car started. The wiring harness on that side of the car that feeds the coil, alt, and other stuff is...

It's a 4 pin, and I switched to the two pin ballast resistor. I measured from the coil to the harness to see which one was supposed to be connected. I was having this problem a few weeks ago with the car. I replaced the ECU with the one off my truck (put a new on on the truck), and it ran fine...

My 73 won't start (crank but not start), I'm not getting any spark while it's cranking. I checked out the ignition unit, ballast resistor, and the voltage regulator. I bought all three new and compared the measurements. The regulator was bad and so was the ignition unit. I replaced them and the...