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i figured as much; but then again, i wouldnt try with my luck w/ electrical equipment. :munky2::munky2::munky2:

after 4 more hours in the garage yesterday i finally got it fixed. i was simply sold the wrong alternator and i wrongly assumed i could make it work... i was sold a 1 prong alternator, but where the 2nd prong should have been, there was the terminal w/ a screw and everything, but no male spade...

okay, we'll do tonight... will post results on friday when i get back to the computer.. oh please god! :angel7:

sorry, didnt pop prior to alternator installation.....the black wire is actually a 'painless wiring' purple wire now, and it goes to the firewall block connector dealio. the connection is fine there... after that, i forgot... a little hung over... the dash lights work, the fuse is from the...

it wasn't touching...or so i think. yes, it is next to impossible to diagnose online. man i wish i had easier issues w/ my car, as most others on this site have simple fixes. it's just a little perplexing as the hot wire on the alternator goes into the starter relay dealio, then into the fuse...

buy buy buy! ive went through about 155 fuses and now i have to buy an ohm meter! :happy6::thefinge: i presume red wire to alternator hot, black to ground such as clean/non painted engine block. ive never ran one of those things. wonder what setting the dial should be on.

its the fuse running into my gauge panel. so, starter, fuel pump, line lock and VHT washer bottle are all hooked up. i've checked all the lines running from each. the starter line is going into the starter relay switch on the inner fender. and come to think of it, i know this would have helped...

disconnected the alternator hot wire... no go. disconnected the tach hot wire... still no go. :tongue8: i looked at about every hot wire running through the engine compartment/ firewall/ under the dash for a breach in the insulator causing a short and couldn't find any.

440 in a duster... mp elec ign w/ ballast resistor... reman alternator.

i'll try that... for the alternator... would you recommend disconnecting the hot wire only, or the whole thing. disconnecting the whole thing (all three wires) would cause it to not have a complete circut anymore correct? also, the tach would jump to about 2k before...

the tach's fine... i just installed a new alternator, but i triple checked the install.. could it be the voltage reg?

Anybody know off hand what would cause my tach to jump to 6k and blow the main fuse everytime i turn the ignition to the "on" position? the fuse gets red hot and then pops.