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I didn't say that right...the cable needs to go from the negative post to the block AND the frame.:oops:

Make sure the cable going from the engine block/cylinder head is grounded to the negative post on your battery. When I went from a built 340 with solid mounts to a mild 318 with rubber mounts I forgot to add a ground cable and i had the same problem.

yes, thats part of the pickup

The adjustment limits or increases the travel of the canister as in the amount of vac advance. The vacuum source needs to be ported as in no vacuum at idle. I would cap it and set your initial and see what you have when and then hook it up and adjust from there.

What about these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H6024-H4-DOT-EURO-CONVERSION-HEADLIGHTS-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3596482e12QQitemZ230154579474QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories · 50% more powerful beam on low beam and a 25% more powerful beam on high beam than...

I've never had a electrical problem with my factory stuff that I could not fix with factory stuff and I won't be using any generic motors or ford crap on my mopars.. and yeah, wow,,,another Camaro/Firebird/LeMans/Chevelle/Mustang/Etc....LMAO! I have not been to a car show in a couple years and...

One of the most dependable engines on the planet and yours is junk? You should sell it. Weird how millions were built and set dependability and mileage records but your mopar is just garbage.

any truck with a magnum 3.9, 5.2, 5.9 engine.

The relay is on the fender near the battery but it sounds like you either don't have a full charge or you have a bad connection somewhere. You need to load test the battery. If you don't have a load tester you can carry it down to your local auto parts store...they can test it and...

Do you have a way to test the battery? like a load tester? Check the obvious...clean and tighten all terminals...

damn it! So my cheapo Advance reman dizzy for the 85 318 that I ran in the 69 a while back was a real good choice and not just the cheap way in!!! I bought it because I didn't wanna mess with recurving the one on the solid cam 340.

That doesn't look so good....

read post 47 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=93962&page=3

Cool man! That is the best thing about this site.

cool, glad to help.

To test the gage you can turn the key on and then ground the wire that goes to the sensor...your gage should max out. Your temp sensor is actually a variable resistor called a thermistor. You can test the sensor with an ohm meter. The normal resistance on an engine at 50 to 80 degrees F = 2,200...

You can see in this pic that I just attached a ground to one of the field terminals. Either way is fine. The insulator is the piece of plastic that is under the field terminal screw. This alternator is from an 85 New Yorker. I do not think it matters which field you ground.

All you have to do is remove the insulator from the screw on the field terminal that you are not using. You can do it that way or you can run a wire from that terminal to the case as a ground.

here, that should do it http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0605_car_questions/advanced_lessons.html

rice, read this article: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/h...d_lessons.html

and what you are adjusting is not how much, but when...as in at what rpm to adjust how much vac advance would require a dizzy change unless you can find the vac unit by itself. this is prob not needed

:poke:well, the solar one would still be electric, but I'm pretty sure I killed the horse! LOL your dizzy is electronic as opposed to breaer type....yours is also called breakerless---no points

Man! You're crazy and not making any sense! OK, just kidding! I'm glad you have an electric distributor...what did they use before those? A horse! LOL ok ok..... http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0605_car_questions/advanced_lessons.html and thats a 3/32" allen wrench!

Oddly, when i bought a replacement coil for the worn out and leaking Stinger coil, the MSD instructions said to mount it upright. I made a bracket from a piece of .080" thick 7075 T6 that was bent 90 degrees before heat-treat and sandwiched the plate between the ignition box and the fender well...

It may still function, but it is leaking and that's bad...

Yup, contact cleaner.

The orange box uses the P5206436 ballast. It is a 1 ohm resistor and costs less than 10 bucks. If the ballast is bad, you should get 0.0 when you put a ohm meter accross the terminals. If it is on it's way out, it won't be long before it no longer starts. Mallory part #700 is a variable...

I was just looking at Advance Auto's site and I was hoping they had both in stock at the store here....they have neither. I think, when the time comes, I will see if i can't get one of each and see how the mounting works out. Either one would be a nice upgrade. I really like the design of the...

I always assumed it was the simple 1 wire hook up. Is that one a Delco? or a differnt Nippondenso style? P.S. OK, I see it's a Delco. That one I like but I think I'll still use the Nippondenso. I think the Nippondenso is smaller.

I see your point, but it's just a personal preference. I admit I didn't realize the apparent hypocrisy. Delco, to me, has always been a primarilly GM company. I like the way the Nippondenso's look a whole lot better than the GM appearing Delco's. At least the Nippondenso looks more like the...