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The unibody could have been twisted before you took it apart and now it's reared it's ugly head when you are trying to put it back together. Our 50 to 60 old cars have had plenty of use and some abuse in their lifetime, you never know what the PO put the car through.

Do you have sub frame connectors in the car? If not, the car maybe twisted causing the problem.

I think I would be finding another alignment shop, they saw you coming and did shoddy work also.

Not worth my time, "IGNORE".

People who ask questions about something and don't post pictures piss a "lot" of the members off. Just because you can't see the problem doesn't mean that some of us can't see it. We do not have a crystal ball, we can't see it from our house, and the list goes on. If you don't want the expertise...

Adjustable strut bars will help a lot.

Why don't you out the f'ing company so others here and other places don't have the same f'ing problem???????????????

Read post number 4 very carefully and reread it many times. Especially item #3.

Years back, mine was spaced roughly 1" away for street driving with street tires. When I went to the track and ran slicks, there was no gap. My suggestion would be to try different setting to see where your car reacts the best.

Sleeper!!! LMAO

Superior used to make one that you "may" be able to adapt.

Once you get the CalTracs installed, take your time in getting them adjusted. Just a slight turn can get you better or worse traction, keep detailed notes as you adjust them. You will thank yourself later down the line.

I have the adjustables on the Demon, I noticed I didn't get as much wheel flutter when the front end came down. RRR, I know yours is a street application so I can't help your there. My friend with a 72 Duster that he installed them on swears by them.

@Oldmanmopar

Definite improvement, go for it. I put a set on a friends 72 Duster 340 4 speed street car and I have a set on my bracket Demon.

I have a Milton truck gauge in my truck that I've had for 25 years, still works accurately.

Needs to be posted in the "For Sale" section.

Check this item number out on Ebay. 312280413701

You can take a center punch & put some dimples in the race area to tighten it up, personally I'd replace it but that's just me.

I wonder if the OP has thought about taking the car to a frame shop & having them check for bend issues. A friend broke a tie rod end at the track & grazed the wall with the right front fender. I went & looked at the car & noticed a small kink in the front frame rail. He took it to a frame...

Contact Bridger Bollinger on the FM/J site, he is in Valdese, NC. He as a bunch of FM/J bodies if your other source doesn't come through for you.

In the Dorman line, they are called "Stover B" lock nuts.

I believe the top piece in the 3rd picture it a Moog K7042 for a 68-72 Dart.

Are you sure the column is secure? It might be twisting slightly when you turn causing the shift lever to go to the neural position. A friend & I had a very similar problem & we finally found that the entire column was twist slightly. We secured the column in a different manner & it cured the...

I may have a pair of front Konis for an A body, they were on my race car when I bout it, I went to some different shocks that I've had excellent luck with. I'll have to check next week when I get back from a road trip to help a friend get the glass for his F body.

He cut it 3 times & it's still too short. LOL I never cut anything until I'm ready to install, "never"!

K7103, been using them for decades.

RRR, you can go to Classic, PST & some of the other suppliers & they will send a catalog for those of us who are internet challenged. LMAO

Carpet & backing flammable, not good thing! LMAO

Something tells me Emily has an emotional attachment to her car & wants to get it going again. There is no harm in trying to resurrect an old car with emotional ties. I wish I had my first car back, my dad & his best friend drug it home. They helped me put it back together, get it running &...