Search results for query: *

that part you are seeing with the 1/4" gap is not the bushing, its part of the control arm press the old one out and you will see what i mean new ones press in until bottomed out

just support the back side of the arm and press in until they bottom out

It just taps in from the outside make sure there is no groove in the shaft where the seal runs or you're just wasting your time put some tape over the splines too to keep from cutting the seal

Ive had them stuck so bad that it removed the threads from the control arm even after using heat and penetrating fluid...most of the US guys and probably those out west wouldnt quite understand how bad things get siezed and rust here in the maritimes if you do tack weld it in, make it quick...

DONT heat front end parts

I did it on my 75 Duster...Removed the trunk floor, and cut the the frame rails off just behind the rear wheels, removed rear crossmember too Fabbed the rails by welding 2 bent sections together to make a channel

sector shaft seal remove pitman arm, remove seal snap ring, start car and seal should pop out ,if not turn the wheel to create enough pressure, check shaft for wear/grooving where the seal runs... If its grooved up, repair/replace sector shaft and seal...if its not that bad, clean it up with...

air shocks are NOT meant to raise a car..its a mickey mouse way to do it buy new, re arch, or maybe your current shocks are done and allowing it to bottom out>?

go weld in...wouldnt waste the $ on bolt ons if you do a seach you can probably find the thread where i explain how i made my own

I did mine myself...all you need is a press Dont get over zealous as I did, a little goes a long way I had to actually remove a leaf or 2 (i forget if it was 1 or 2) to bring it back down to where i wanted it

no pics, but I made my own and was very simple for my '75 Duster with 2" square tubing just run them from where the rear sub frame stops, just in front of the rear wheels, straight to the T bar crossmember cut square on one end, 45 on the other...cut 6-8" section out of your rear floor the...

You got it

traction bars are of little use on mopars due to the eliptical spring design spring clamps and pinion snubbers are useful though

I bought all my front end stuff from Mopar...Most of the stuff you want should be still available or in the performance catalog

mine rides at the same height...and it looks good...leave it alone...i wouldnt use the stock alignment specs though...

here in the land of rust, otherwise know as Eastern Canada, thats pretty common place...same thing on my '75 duster... First I cut the trunk pans out...then cut the frame rails and rear crossmember off just where it starts to straighten out after coming over the wheel... made frame rails and...

It should work fine as long as they are the same nominal size...I would use a minumum grade 8...alot of suspension bolts are grade 10...

you can get the springs re arched...longer shackles or air shocks are just a way aound doing the job correctly... Its easy and cheap..all you need is a press, new u bolts,center bolts...

doesnt look right to me..the ones ive seen are larger in diam and 2 pieces...

Yep...I had a pair of originals for the front and ordered a pair from Wheel Vintiques for the rear and had to paint them to match my fronts...

Outer edge tire wear can also be a camber problem... If you've altered anything on the vehicle, tires, engine size, etc the stock ride height measurements are out the window Just get it sitting the height you want, and measure to the control arms,not the bumper(they can be crooked) and make...

i wouldnt waste the $...I made mine from 2"x2" square tubing(matches the subframe tubes) It was a straight shot from the T bar crosstubes to the rear subframe rails...they will stick up into the rear floor a little bit(where your feet go sitting in the back seat) just cut the 2" slot in the...