Search results for query: *

Don't forget that you can't turn the bolt to remove them, it has a flat side in the adjuster cams. When mine get that rusted i use a 2 FT. breaker bar on the nut (after penetrating oil of some kind). They either turn loose or snap the bolt. If the bolt snaps i have always been able to drive...

After tons of letter writing and with the help of many good parts stores, I've gotten largely to the bottom of the question. There is a problem with how the mid-grade parts are built! First, the NAPA part listed for the 1969 Barracuda fits fine, but they have made the mount bushing shorter so...

I'm rebuilding the front end of the shark. It is a 68 Barracuda, 318 car, with power steering I got my kit from PSC in Phoenix, a company that I've used before and like. They sent a McQuay-Norris idler arm PN FA604. It seems to have to little "bend" in it. Compared to the old idler the end...

Hey, I like that! I thought I would have to cut and roll my own and was wondering how to locate the hole for the torsion bar adjuster. Guess I'll head to Mancini for a minute!

One offset will go inside and one will go outside. What you are really doing is moving the outer end of the control arm (upper ball joint) either forward or back depending on whether you want more or less caster. You probably want more on an A-Body.

I'm starting the front end rebuild on the Shark. A 1968 Barracuda, 318 car with 10" manual drums and power steering. I have decided to stick with the original style components and torsion bars, add a sway bar, and go with Poly Bushings. But, I would like to use offset uppers in order to get...