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I am referring to a car driven under normal driving conditions. I am not referring to racing or modified cars. I have been working on mopars since 1966, and I have never seen a bar break from a score. so I strongly disagree with your concept of what a score is. bars do go flat, or get badly...

scoring will not damage the bar. However, two conditions can cause the bar to break. the first is if the lower A frame bushing collapses, causing the housing in the frame to crack and allow the bar to move around and break. another cause (rarely) but defective bar when manufactured.

I agree the first picture shows the front end too high for me. Originally, Since the rear is elevated, then the front was raised to compensate. So, you can either lower the rear, or crank up the Torsion bars back up to compensate.However, on the Mopar the higher you go, the less the ride, and...

I also agree with this, if that is all it takes! All I am saying is: In hardcore cases, the original Instructions per the manual rule.

If there was a chance of damage, Mopar would not have Invented the tool. A vise grip lightly clamped to a bar wrapped with duct tape works in a pinch only, and never recommended unless a real factory clamp can't be secured. In addition, once a torsion bar is released, there is no danger to...

Chrysler specifically designed a C clamp tool to use in this situation, and no damage is ever done. The original poster can also easily find the correct way to perform this repair as described by reading the factory service manual. He can also google "correct removal of Mopar torsion Bar" and...

Mopar performance also sells the correct C clamp tool, and will work well regardless of headers or not. And unless that strut rod nut is at least screwed out, , that lower A frame won't go anywhere. it may bounce, but that is it. With the right tool, it takes less time to do the work than it...

You don't need to remove the lower control arm stud nut. simply loosen it up. You can't pry on the lower frame much unless you remove the lower strut rod nut as well. A good C clamp will work fine, but People without the C clamp tool get use heavy duty vise grip, clamp onto the bar, and...

First screw out the torsion bar adjuster all the way out. Then loosen up the big nut holding the lower A frame into the K member. You then need a tool that you attach to the Torsion bar and then use a hammer to tap the bar out of the lower A frame. You loosen up the lower A frame Nut in order to...

The Duster/Demon bodies are wider in back, but I could see a problem with the dart Body.

are your Lower control arm Bushings in good shape? They tend to roll in the frame as they wear out.

I bought a set of axles from Strange a few years ago, I would recommend pursuing that. I drilled my axles once back in the day, and under acceleration one day, the studs broke. No more of that!

I would throw them away. I have seen many a mopar with a shock tower pulled away from the trunk floor., once that metal is ripped, it is a real B#### to properly repair. Having this damage is a dead giveaway as to how the car was treated.

Check your LCA bushings, they could be worn out. A body cars with Factory V8 and a/c have Torsion bars with the same number as 340 bars, 67-72, if you can find them.

The manual steering column is longer than the power steering column.

Doublecheck your strut rod nuts, when it pops going in reverse the frame is likely moving front to back. The original mopar part had a steel sleeve in the bushing. When I got my kit from PST, no sleeve was Included. I don't like that part of their kits. I had to use the old ones. Also, you...

The strut rod bushing is up front in the K member, so the fluid isn't the culprit there. However, the lower A frame bushing is below the P.S. and the fluid can get to that. What you're actually hearing is the rotten lower A frame and strut rod bushing working together to irritate you.The fact...

Keep the nut loose on the front of the lower arm, that assy will move if that nut is loose. if it is snug, use a long extension and hammer and tap the anchor down. if it goes down too far, pry it back up a bit. You don't need to do anything with any ball joints. If necessary, put a floor jack...

as above, make sure the adjuster is screwed all the way out so the tip id flush with the anchor. push the anchor down all the way. If it doesn't align slightly, then mofve the anchor up a little to side the bar in. No two bars are alike after 48 years or so.