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Mancini has been a source in the past.

If you want to upgrade the strength and stability of your front end try Firm Feel in Vancouver WA. They have several parts to take the collective flex out of the sloppy stock components and are glad to discuss the best picks for your particular application.

Super stock springs were designed for drag cars, not street cars and are (IMHO) inappropriate for that use. One spring is much stiffer than the other and often even makes the car sit tilted. Works well to launch a leaf spring drag car straight and flat, but driving on the street... not so great.

Yeah - IMHO DON"T GO WITH THAT!!! Look at the kit on DrDiff's web site or the one from Mancini Racing. That design was developed by Chrysler engineers for Direct Connection/Mopar Performance and is tried and true.

sorry, but what the heck is the gizmo that you show in your first post??? It is unlike any 1/2-3/4 relocation kit that I have ever seen!!!

warning: Not being a smart ***!!! is that true when you are just driving? (I really want to know...)

I love instructions that come on stone tablets from a higher authority... But why is this true? :)

Can somebody find the video by a member here talking about the various ways to replace the bushing with the least pain?!!?!?

offset reversed on one side???

CORRECT!!!- give that man a prize... don't forget to put the rubber body plug in the bench seat hole, that's what the factory did.

DMT sells Stainless ones!

Ball joint stripped the treads once... see welds, ball joint to A- arm. Not a bad thing, but last use of that A arm probably...

another vote for ESPO. I have +1 springs on all my Darts - some of them 20 years old. They do settle in the first year and then more over time, so your best bet is a +1 or even a +2. Be sure to order 6 leaf springs - that's what all the 340 A bodies of your era came with. They come with the...

clamp the spring leafs securely before you replace that bugger!!! ESPO has longer nub bolts if you can't find then locally.

If it's a Sure Grip it has a button

Have you used the strut that runs from the wheel opening corner to the bumper brace to adjust the fender a bit in the critical location? Some members here have even modified the strut to hold the fender out a little bit more to solve the issue

Not for A Bodies, correct??? I thought they went to 8 1/4 in 73...

just curious... wasn't 72 the last year for an 8 3/4???

BE CAREFUL TO VERY CAREFULLY FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR OFFSET BUSHINGS!!! THEY CAN ONLY BE ORIENTED ONE WAY AND ANY DEVIATION WILL BE COUNTER PRODUCTIVE.

AC vs. non AC should not make a difference at all - the brackets are the same and they therefore put the pump in exactly the same place.

Where did the springs come from? You can order springs with extra arch, did you? As stated earlier, springs will settle with time and use. I wouldn't jump to any conclusions until you drive the car some and see what happens. Even the difference from side to side may work out. Once the car is...

Super Stock springs are designed for the drag strip. They are an attempt to get the car to launch flat so when the car is just sitting or driving down the road one side in the back is higher than the other. You can get A-body 6 leaf springs from ESPO that will work a lot better for driving...

See PM for wheels near you...

have the USCT connectors on 2 of my 1970 Darts. you are trying to make a box beam using the floor as the third side. The more completely it is welded to the floor the more effective the connectors will be. This set up made an enormous difference in both of the cars! 53 years of driving them...

there are direct replacement tubular upper control arms that use the original small ball joints that are made to do more than offset bushings can and allow correct alignment for modern tires. Call Firm Feel inc to discuss what is available.

Thanks for the input! I did indeed find a diagram in the FSM and provided it to my friend. It did not have the level of detail and notes that accompany the commercial diagrams. I'm glad I got the one for my 1970 Darts a few years ago.

A friend is working on a 1968 GTX and doing some major bodywork. I have a frame chart for my 1970 Dart that says "Copyright 1970 by George W Liskey". I know that I ordered the chart from a company, but damned if I can find the source for mine. Does anybody know a source for these diagrams...

IMHO you could use any of the three casings with a Sure Grip and the right gears with your 360/727. If you do any real highway miles then I would suggest 3.23 gears. Once you get into the Hemi and OD 6(?) speed you will probably want to get another chunk to take best advantage of that combo...

What do you plan to do with the car? Are you driving it much? Are you drag racing it, road racing it? if racing, how much - a couple times a year for fun or is it what you are primarily building the car for? Any of the 3 chunks might be fine or you might need a special build for strength...

If you are looking for comments on black or polished trim... IMHO black trim looks cheap on a muscle car era car.