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Not sure it's worth the hassles, those are some pretty tall spindles on 'C' bodies. In drag racing, it's a lot of un-sprung weight in the wrong place, too. Mark.

I did the old, tried and true conversion on a '68 Dart Sedan a few years back. That conversion was as follows: 1973-'76 A body spindles. '76-'81 B & R body 11.875 rotors. Calipers and mounts from a '76 Cordoba (pin type). MANUAL master cylinder from a '73 A body 6 cylinder car. Rear brakes...

Better replace/repair the booster, any vacuum leaks can lead to a lean running condition, which causes burned valves. Mark.

Supposedly those spindles change steering axis inclination, might be a big deal, might not. I think I also recall something being different with the lower ball joints, something about one hole being tapped for threads where it's not on an A body. You will also need to use the A body lower...

Are you using A body axles drilled to accept the big bolt pattern, or are you using re-splined/aftermarket big bolt pattern ones? There are only 2 basic widths of fullsize 11" brakes, 2.5" and 3", the backing plates between the 2 ARE NOT interchangeable, as the depths are different. FWIW...

Any later B, F, J, M or R body will work, even the 11.75" ones are the same, just bolt them on and go. Mark.

The 10" small bolt pattern drums are all the same, fit wise, some have a flare but that doesn't conflict with anything. The 10" 8.75 drum will fit if you use the corresponding 10" 7.25 backing plates. The 7.25 and the 8.75 housing ends use different bolt patterns, plus the 7.25 uses only 4...

Some pople are using the F,J, M stuff with the '73-'76 A body upper control arm, but I don't know how well it works, never cared to find out. Personally, I'd rather use the A body pieces, so I'm sure the suspension works properly, but that's just me. Most anyone who sells these pieces will...

Ideas? Yeah, find good used ones and resurface them. As "luck" would have it, I have a nice pair of finned ones here. :) Mark.

What's wrong with using an 8 3/4 Mopar rear end? A '65-'67 B body rear end fits fine under an A body like a '67-'69 Barracuda, Duster, Demon or Dart Sport. Moving the spring perches is about the worst part of the swap, though some people have put them in there with the B body perches and...

Do yourself a BIG favor, just convert to the '73-up pieces and be done with it. Trying to Mickey Mouse some other stuff on that's "close" is risky business where brakes are concerned. I also don't subscribe to the "redrill" procedures, either, as there's just not enough extra built into the...

In a moment of panic, one would rather know they have the ABILITY to stop, if the circumstances are good, rather than wishing they COULD stop when the circumstances were in their favor. Err on the side best in your favor, always have "too much" brake!! As far as the debate on "pin" or...

73-'76 A bodies with disc OR drum used the same upper control arm. I've NEVER swapped the "proportioning valve" onto the drum brake cars and it's never caused me a problem in braking effectiveness. Mark.

Most places that offer the aftermarket axles use a standardized system, depending on the make of vehicle (IE: Mopar, Ford, Chevy). If it eases your mind, tell them what brakes you want to use and that you want the standard Mopar axle offset, though I'm sure you'd get it done without asking...

Per a post on BigBlockDart.com: I saw either here or on another site a place you can get the small bolt pattern rotors cheap (26.00) and decided to check it out. I ordered four rotors and it cost me 111.82 shipped to my door from the mid west to socal. The cheapest I could find them in...

Where did you get the axles from? Did you specify that they were going into an A body housing, with the A body brakes? A body and pick-ups use 2 different brake offsets, the difference is @ 3/8" per side, so you need to know which offset you have built into the axles. Moser and Strange will...