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Ok looked in a parts book and there not the same. If there is a casting number on them the right side should end in an even number and the left will end in an odd number. If there is no casting number, the neck on the ball joint boss sweeps toward the front of the car according to illustrations...

I believe they are the same left and right. NOT CORRECT SEE NEXT POST.

A machine shop could redrill all 5 holes offset from the original holes and that way you could save your hubs and maintain the 5 on 4-inch pattern and also use the factory style studs. Just another option for unobtainable hubs.

Take them to a welder and have them welded and ground smooth.

I will second that.

I wonder if Scarebird might not have something for this.

A lot of big truck drums are worn out by the time you make it thru a set of brake shoes any way.

Just checked on Autozones website Duralast rear brake drums P/N 8191 $106.99 each Damn guys don't throw away your old 9-inch rear drums there worth a mint.

I have often thought that buying a AMMCO brake lathe and advertising on Face Book and such locally could be a good retirement gig. Maybe also checking with local shops that didn't have a brake lathe and try to drum up work.

I would leave it on.

Thats because most FWD cars have a X style brake system RF to LR and LF to RR.

On automobiles the front brakes are primary because they do 75% plus of the braking power. On trucks medium and heavy the rear/drive axle brakes are primary; this includes air brakes.

9-inch brake don't use the pins 10 inch do.

Maybe they are adjusted too tight.

Make sure the parking brake cables are free and not frozen also posible the wheel cylinder pistons are frozen in the bore.

My sister and brother-in-law had a Buick Lasaber that did this, and it ended up being it had the wrong master cylinder on it.

See BKCowGods picture see how the ball joint and the spindle join the spindle is twisted that is a 9-inch spindle. The 10-inch ones sweep out towards the drum.

With front disc brakes the rear brakes only do about 20% of the braking so up grading them is not near as important as the front. I would even go so far as to say 11-inch rear brakes are an over kill on an A body. Hell my 86-ford ranger 4X4 has 9-inch brakes on the rear.

Remember do not throw the old stuff away someone else may need it.

The drums on the front are swedged from the factory they were only sold as a service part by Chrysler that way. If you need to separate the drum from the hub the swedge must be cut off first if you try to press out the studs without cutting off the swedge you will F up your hubs. The correct...

But those are not finned which was the point of the original post.

How about front drums for 9 inch ?

And if they did where would you get them today?

Did they ever make finned 9-inch drums?

Between the parking brake lever and the brake shoe.

70-inch pounds per my 63-service manual but I adjust them by feel as most mechanics would.

In 63 Plymouth and Dodge were full size cars and Valiant and Dart were Compact Cars, the letter body coding didn't come until later.

Looks like the rest of the rear brake parts are available thru Autozone 433 shoes 29.99 set 33504 wheel cylinders 13.99 each 8191 rear drums 95.49 each H7037 hardware kit 8.29 kit I think it's time to stop throwing away rear 9 inch drums at that price it would pay to hoard them.

I just looked at Autozone and a H7037 shows to be a good number and is available

Yours has the early style shoe hold down springs I looked quickly on the internet for the big 4 auto parts suppliers, and none show the correct hardware kit. I will look further and maybe someone else may have a source.