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you ever port a set of 302s? theres alot of meat in there. matter-o-fact i broke through the p-rod guides before ever coming close to the water jackets. brass sleeves and fixed. IMO the swirl chamber is the power maker.

this is a good read..: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/5115_cylinder_heads/index.html they use bigblock heads.. but the theory is all the same. the 308 exaust ports somewhat resemble the W2 your reffering too.

I think the chamber on the "308" head is just a open chamber.. not the swirl chamber like a "302".

this is gonna sound STUPID but look at some chevrolet sites and see the UNBELIEVABLE horsepower there getting from NA 283's. most of it would be applicable to the 273.

well i can honestly say that I raped a few cars at the track (heads up) running eddy headed engines.. with my pathetic 302's. IMO 302 are GREAT cylinder heads. but moper is right all LA heads are the same, until you get to the 302.

i thought the 308's didn't have the swirl chamber either.

:thebirdm: i agree with the above statements. 1.88's are good enuff for the 318s bore size. no need to deshroud anything. well mabey a little valve reliefs on the chamber walls. those heads work extreamly well with 360 and larger engines too. you just need a big enuff port for the 2.02 or...

don't need to see a set to see what there capable of. a little knowledge and experience is all thats needed to make an educated guess. 550-650 nahp with cast iron heads? sure.. with enough money it can be done to any production/aftermarket cast iron head. obviously all aftermarket cyl.heads...

IT HELPS BECOUSE... lotsa good advice in this thread.. you just gotta read between the lines lol

I can't see those RHS heads making anywhere remotely close to 600 NA horsepower. 550 is a long stretch. its just not gonna happen. or any production cast iron head for that matter... for those kinda horsepower levels you need W5's/Indy's(360-1)/etc.

BEFORE (for safety) you put the trunk mounted cell in, you should have fabbed up some 18gage sheelmetal and welded it along the rear pakage tray, down and around the wheelwells, and finally to the trunk floor. now for the smell/safety.. block/cover/weld up any holes on the rear pkg. tray. that...

hope they are not talking about cranking down the adjuster to lift the valve of its seat lol. too much/little gap can affect the duration (how long the valve stays open) of a camshaft.

hydrualic roller cam and fuel injection will hit 500hp AND 16mpg and not even break a sweat.

with 318's the UNDER 4" bore is its biggest downfall.. valve shrouding once you get into a decent sized valve.. the Chevy 327 has a nice 4"bore and a 3.25" stroke.. They hit the mark with that engine. 360hp carburated. 1.1 hp/cube.. not too shabby for factory stock.

Heres my "302" smogger head intake ports: the port on the left is obviously in its stock form, while the port on the right is only half done. Dont mind the metal gasket, its only there for a vague reference. I'll try to did up some more pics of the step by step process.. and also the...

1. I know he's a Van Halen fan 2. Don't really care who he is 3. Okie Dokie

i know that, you said 10's with eddies. re-read your comments at me. you asked I answered. what the hell is yellowbullet?~ nevermind i just googled it. now anybody wanna go fast with a streetable smallblock combo: stroker smallblock indy intake indy 360-1 heads rollercam .600+lift/easy...

i got the fact that that i can get it done with stock iron heads that you need to accomplish with ported eddies. iron heads (302's)/pump gas/street driven 11.79:1cr.... *Edit suspension tweeks is just like free horsepower.

pinion angle shims was about 2/10's (eliminates wheel hop to a point and improves 60' times) snubber height was about 2/10's (eliminates axle wind-up big time and and improves 60' times) tire pressure was about 2/10's (60' times decreased) 300horse, 3300lb car and he should run 12's all day long.

suspension. It ain't always about the horsepower.

Not always true. At the test and tune at the track, within 5 passes I managed to knock .6secs of my ET with some tuning.

345hp/370ft-lbs

less the my ex-girlfriend!

Moper, the reference to F1 engines is that they go totally against todays thinking of what the ideal bore/stroke-rod ratios should be. i just thought it was interesting! 750+hp and only 250-300ft-lbs of torque will lay waste to most cars on the 1/4mile lol. cheers dgc333, then they couldn't...

look at the bore/stroke ~ rod ratios on ANY formula one engine. cheers

care to share that program? nice read btw...

the most IDEAL engine would be the longest rod combined with a stroke under 3.5" (providing the piston pin dosn't go to far into the rings). you want rod ratio's in the 1.8-2.0:1 range. combine that with a bore larger then 4inches. those types of engines breath deep, and rev high.. the ticket...

thanks for the correction. but you said 408" on both so...... a better comparison would be 408 mopar smallblock vs 408 chevy smallblock.

niether example would be an oversquare engine.

rumblefish360... thats some pretty sound advice considering your a FABO Moderator! LOL! cheers