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Here's an update from my last post. I moved the battery to the trunk, drag shocks front and rear, installed a mallory hyfire with 2 step limiter and a line lock. While going down the strip, I was unable to keep the throttle to the floor the entire time, since I ended up having problems...

Well, I threw some money at the problem. Comp Engineering adjustable drag shocks front and rear (I'll return the gas ones), a line lock and battery relocation kit. I got the battery relocator helper kit from MAD electric too. I plan on eventually putting in the toyota 4 runner alternator and...

496 - I put on cheapo monroe gas-matic shocks from Advance (asked for shocks for a 69 D100) and they were 23.5" fully extended. Now my shocks aren't preventing full suspension extension. I'm only out $34 if I get a better set later.

I made multiple passes, but I think it's something static weight transfer (battery in trunk), properly heated tires (install line lock and get good burnout), and less driver error will help with. All I've done to this point is clamp the springs and put longer shocks in. If I start pulling 1.8...

Yellowdart - I'm betting you're single, I can't imagine my wife letting me put my bikes in my kitchen. Nice picture.

I just thought I'd update this - I put longer shocks in, and clamped the front section of the rear springs. The wheel hop is completely gone, but I'm still spinning off the line. Everything worked better when I lowered tire pressure to 16psi. I was at a track at higher density altitude...

Thanks for the tip on the clamps. I'll go to homedepot - faster, cheaper and it will be made in the USA; maybe not the steel, but the fabricator (me) is American. Is there any advantage to unclamping the rear section of the springs? For anyone else wondering about the shocks, if you go to...

Okay guys, just finished some measurements. I started with the pinion snubber, put it 1/2" from floor pan. Next was pinion angle. Pinion is down 1 degree. Engine on front crankshaft pulley is up 3.5 to 4 degrees, meaning tailshaft is down that much. I think that means I have a 4.5-5...

Where do you find longer shocks? I'm assuming you could just go to autozone and ask for a shock for a truck, but what model truck or car has the length needed?

Thanks everyone for your inputs. Here's my plan: Set the correct pinion snubber height, reinforce floor pan Measure rear shocks and make sure I have at least 28" extended Put battery in trunk Install subframe connectors Install rev limiter - I'm thinking about the mallory hyfire ignition...

On the MT drag radials I went down to 15psi, but my best time was when I was at 18psi. It was a cold night (45 degrees), so tire temperature was probably more of a factor than tire pressure.

Brad - I'm running Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials. Am I missing out on that much by not having a full slick? I heard great things about those drag radials, but if full slicks are that much better I'm game for trying a set out. I currently have the adjustable snubber set about 1.5"...

I'm looking for your guys' thoughts on what to start on first to get my car to launch better. It's a street car, but I want to be able to take it to the strip and start bracket/index racing on the weekends. Here's my current set up and quarter mile performance. 72 Demon 4 speed 3.91 sure...