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Had the same thing happen last year. Although I filled the crankcase with gas. I thought it was the carb so I rebuilt it. Changed the oil (mostly gas) and drove it a few days only to fill the damn crankcase again! Then a good fellow here suggested the pump was leaking into the engine...

Something just dawned on me... Are you thinking that the pump is leaking directly into the crankcase???

Doesn't a fuel pump either pump X gallons a hour or nothing??? How would it ever "over-pump"??? I have heard of older engines (Flathead era) that would do this. Maybe I should read up on how a fuel pump pumps?

The carb kit arrived at the shop this morning and I replaced everything. The float checked out ok, as did all the diaphragms. The inlet needle was free. Actually too free compared to the new one. I wonder if the "slop" in it caused it to stay open or leak??? Thanks for the help guys...

Ya. Guess I should have stated, '68 225 :oops:

Before I tear into my carb, what causes a carb to dump excess fuel? Last week I noticed a "fuel smell" and parked the car after I made it home. Drained a couple gallons of gas with the 5 quarts of oil.... Not happy. It was literally shooting out the valve cover! (she may be clean now, but...

I think the one that said something about swapping in a flathead was the closest to the answer you are looking for. Search for a flathead forum and see what they are using and the performance/flow numbers they are getting. You can always make a 94 or Stromberg fit. The adapter is the easy...

You're going to hear it from someone sooner or later... Get a copy of the factory service manual. Those Chilton manuals have alot of wrong information in them. Fine for finding the oil capacity I guess, but probably off when it comes to proper clearances. Most of the power is in the head...

Welcome to the slanted party! Do some searching and reading about your engine. Then read some more. A '80 slant would be a hydraulic cam (I think) so I would suggest reading up on the cut-off year for solid to hydraulic. If it's ticking and a hydro cam... who knows what may be making the...

One is too small. A few people have done 2 or 3 of the little guys. Do a search. Multiple carbs that are notorious for being hard to tune by themselves doesn't sound like a whole lot of fun.

Sure. You have a price in mind? You might want to research this idea.... The aussie engines are COMPLETELY different from the USA version. And they aren't actually HEMI's. It was a marketing thing even though those engines came with some cool induction options and a bit more power...

I think what he was referring to was the OP's car. No other slants in '73 than a 225.

One more thing to check. Every. And I mean EVERY Barry Grant carb I have touched (OK, it's only 4 of them, but it was all of them) had debris inside. Shavings and such. A dirty carb really makes tuning hard.

A quick search netted this: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36482&highlight=aussie+hemi http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32422&highlight=aussie+hemi

There is a guy on slantsix.org that imports a few every once in a while. They were not out of line considering the trip they have to take to get on US soil. I assume you have read up on these engines. You know they don't just bolt in. They are wider and longer if I remember correctly...

Just throwing this out there for thought... Isn't there a big risk of electrical fires in our old Mopars when a larger alternator is installed?? Seems to me that over the years I have read of more than a few dash fires after electrical components where "up graded".

Oh come on! Why am I not on the 20 second list??? :thebirdm:

The short answer is yes. It will bolt right up, no problems. The problems come when you put an aftermarket carb (holley, demon, weber, etc.) on it. Then you may/may not have to deal with accelerator rods/cables and kickdown cables. But almost every combination has been done so if you give...

Every time I go to slantsix.org I get a go daddy page instead. Anyone else having this happen or am I the one with a virus??

Go to youtube.com and search for Shonky and the SoundRacer V8 Everytime I copy the link it embeds it to the web site.

I see a group buy happening 8)

You can find a dealer here: http://www.soundracer.se/ If you haven't yet, surf around the gizmag site: http://www.gizmag.com/automotive/ They are only around $40.00 at one of the retailers!

I would never dream of swapping my slant out for a V8, however it does lack a bit in the throaty sound. Here is the soulution: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo

Maybe this article will help: http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dibiase_efi/efi-conversion.htm

I think you have something backwards. Most turbo kits have stainless headers. Heavy ones at that. The manifold has to take a ton of heat. I wouldn't bother with an intake. They are available in damn near any configuration you need or easily modified if cast in aluminum. Any non turbo...

I don't think you are listening. I didn't know the details that Frank explained but you have been told what the problem is. Pull the cam and lifters (you must have had to replace push rods too to even be able to lash the valves) and put in a mechanical set. Get angry with Clifford and...

I'm confused. You told Clifford that you had a '68 225 and they suggested a hydraulic cam? Or did you want a hydraulic cam for some reason?? I don't know the details exactly, but I think there is more to it than just changing the cam and lifters. I think the whole push rod/rocker assembly...

Oh no, you guys woke Dan up!

This may help too: http://www.mymopar.com/wiringdiagrams.htm

So do you have some details on that engine???? I'm not understanding it.