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'73 has electronic ignition and the kick-down is working correctly

All lowering the rpm is going to do is make it shake worse in gear at a stop, ask me how I know. As for the tach being off my idle is set directly off of the plug wire with a digital tach, which at most can be 20 rpm off. Idle mixture either way changes idle but no change in pull from being in...

yep filter and pump are also new. If you get on the gas its peppy right away, no lag at all. If I'm just sitting there in gear though its shaking the car apart.

I am having a load problem with my slant six and need some help with diagnosis. -Fresh valve adjustment -Timing set to 10* -No vacuum leaks -Running temp idle set to 750 RPM -Vacuum advance ran straight from dizzy to carb -New plugs gapped correctly and sealing washers removed -New cap and...

Haven't heard of one having a different size yet, but I'd wait for someone more experienced with these cars to chime in.

I'm assuming your talking about Cunifer from fedhillusa.com? Great stuff, I used it for brake lines before, but pricy for this application.

can anyone at least tell me if this is an original carb or a reman'd one?

I'll spend the same amount and get them from Summit like my last post stated, thanks anyways

Thanks for the link, only bad thing is I just put an order through Summit 2 days ago :banghead: Oh well, new lines it is

5/16 is too small, that's the size of the fuel lines on the car. I have my own benders and as for imlinetube.com I actually called them today and was told they don't have lines for my car, only up to '72 Darts. Also I don't have the original lines or fittings, like an idiot I scrapped them...

Home bent would be just fine, but what are the sizes?

Alright, going through and replacing the transmission lines in my car since the originals snapped. Question is if everyone is just rerunning steel lines or is anyone just buying fittings and running rubber hose from the trans to the cooler in the radiator? Either way what size are the...

I had one that I rebuilt, turns out it was a reman'd carb to start with and could never get it to idle right.

this the sale thread. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=193257 I really just need a well running slant 6 for this season since I'll have the finances to rebuild the 318 I picked up over winter.

I'm in need of a carb for my '73 Dart and found this one in the classifieds off of '74 duster 225. Wondering if this is a reman'd carb or OEM and if I will have at least a summer of success from it if I but the thing to get my car running again. 6R 5147 B 4006687 7869 1396 12R-6845B Elhton

Great, thanks and hoping if funds allow with school this winter that I can either do an 8 swap or decent turbo setup on this motor so either way the carb is just short term to get around to the local shows and cruises this season.

Alright now upon talking to Daytona Parts they need a number that starts with an R on the body of the carb which I don't have. He said its behind the throttle linkage and I may need to pull the throttle to view it, but all I have is one single capital A and blank space. From the post I read...

Not at all, I'm going to do a simple rebuild on the carb to drive the car this summer and then I'm pulling this motor and trans combo out over the winter anyways.

Out of curiousity do you happen to have a correct vacuum diagram for this setup also? Thank you for your help also

Guess my question now is why on a '73 from New York do I have a '74 carb and emissions can from California?

How do you know this? Wondering what source you got your information that I wasn't able to find

Car is a '73 Dodge Dart Custom and I have been told by a sales person at Napa that I have a Holley 1945, and then the owner of a speed shop local to me said it's a Holley 1920. Which is it? I.D. #'s 3830856 7096 1194 Then on the other side 6R 4360 B Need to know this...