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Two words for the cooling problem. HOOD SEAL Do You have the Factory rubber hood to radiator core support hood seal in place. If not, get one and install it. I fought a cooling problem for years. Tried everything. Installed a factory hood seal and fixed the cooling problem. This seal keeps...

^^^THIS !

This is the seal you need. Mopar A Body 67-69 Barracuda & Dart, 70-76 Duster Hood to Radiator Seal with SS Clips I tried various type of foam and homemade seals and this is what worked. Herb

This is one of the more important parts of the cooling system that everyone ignores. There is WAY more then a "Tiny bit" of air that gets pulled "back" thru the radiator. The main purpose of the hood to core support seal is not to force more air through the radiator. It is to keep the hot...

This is what I did for awhile until I got tired of having to put the foam in place all the time. I ended up drilling holes in the factory locations and using a new factory style hood seal.

That is one of the most important pieces of the cooling system. It keeps the hot engine bay air from being drawn back over the top of the core support and recirculated through the radiator.

We did the air dam on spl440's Dart first. He is the one that came up with the idea of using the Dakota air dam Then we did one on my dart. Here is the link to how we did it. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1969871218&postcount=6 Here is the link to the complete post...

I have one in my car. Works well now that I have everything else fixed. Here are links to my project: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=224853 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106 Herb

I see by your avatar photo that you have a fiberglass hood. Do you have a factory style rubber core support / hood seal installed ? If not, I would suggest that you install one. The seal keeps engine heat from being drawn over the top of the radiator core support and back through the...

If it did not overheat with a 26'' radiator, put another 26" radiator back in. Sounds like the 22" does not have enough core surface or fulid capacity to do the job. Herb

Wizard Cooling.............................

I have had a couple of PM's wanting to know where I got the upper and lower radiator hoses and the part numbers. Here is that info for anyone that may want/need it. I bought the hoses at O'reilly's. They are made by GATES. The UPPER is 20875. The LOWER is 20558. The upper MAY need...

The pulley sizes are listed in this post http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106 Herb

Here is what I have for now. I will have to pull the crank and water pump pulleys to find the part numbers. I called March with the measurements of the pulleys on my engine and their measurement did not match mine. Do not know why.. Link to Wizard Cooling: www.wizardcooling.com Radiator...

I am working on getting the numbers for you. Herb

See item 5 in this post http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970025237&postcount=9 I think the hood seal was one of the biggest improvements in reducing the coolant temp. With it in place the under hood heat is not drawn over the top of the core support back into and thru the...

Did you read Part 2 ? http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106 I had a 180* in the engine all along. Herb

I don't know what you mean by the WRONG thermostat. The cooling issues were a combination of problems. All of which were addressed in this post. Herb

Here is the link to pretty much the final setup and results. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106 The last drive I made with the car was on a 98* day. It was a 40 mile round trip of mixed highway and stop and go. The highest temp shown on the ECU log was 205 at a...

"Dart67" submitted a new Article: How To Rebuild a Vacuum Heater Control Switch Read more about this article here...

I have read every word of that thread. It is very interesting. Thank you for the kink, it may be of help or interest to others that read this thread. Herb

I have run my 273 since 1980 with allen headed pipe plugs in the waterpump heater hose hole and intake manifold holes. In 33 years never had a problem or a leak. Herb

Make sure that you use a NPT tap (National Pipe Thread) if you do tap it so that you can use a pipe plug. Herb

I have driven the car a few times now on 85* to 95* days. While driving the temp holds between 175* and 185*. When stopped at traffic lights, I have not seen it go over 190* and it will the drop back down when I moving again. The highest I have seen it so far is 210* after driving for about...

I have driven the car a few times now on 85* to 95* days. While driving the temp holds between 175* and 185*. When stopped at traffic lights, I have not seen it go over 190* and it will the drop back down when I moving again. The highest I have seen it so far is 210* after driving for about...

Just a slight bit. Once the dam is mounted to the bumper brackets, the "flange area of it has to be notched or sliced in several places and then heated with a heat gun and bent and pushed to conform with the bumper. Once the dam is "formed" to the underside of the bumper it can be trimmed and...

I took the car out for a drive today and for the first time since 2005 it stayed COOL. When I left the house the outside temp was 90*. I drove 10 miles to the hardware store and the temp gauge showed 165*-170* when I stooped. I was in the hardware store for about 10 minutes. When I came out and...

I have, they are good people to work with. They are NOT CHEAP. They ARE AMERICAN MADE. Here are a couple of links to my post that shows my Wizard Radiator. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=224853 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238106 Herb

Right now I am running just distilled water and fleet guard. The temps are in the 90's now. When winter comes along, I will either drian the system, or add a little anti freeze. It does not get that cold here for any length of time. Herb

Fisher, I bought the Fleetguard at the local Cummins shop. Here are the specs for the engine. The idle timing is 18* and the AFR was right around 14.0. The engine is a 440 MOPAR bored and stroked to 512cu.in. A well prepped set of Edelbrock Aluminum heads. Static Compression Ratio...