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Driveshaft and uni joints are new, diff is new and I done a spanner check yesterday and everything feels and looks good. The car only has 400 miles on it since rebuild, so it might be the flywheel. I'll check the speedo as that does bounce around a bit. I'll try and get a video up tonight...

Clutch as soon as I let the clutch out and start rolling backwards.

I've got a hissing noise every time I stick her in reverse. 440/4 speed 18 spline. I don't have any leaks, the box is new and the reverse switch is on tight. It's doing my head in. Any ideas? It's definitely coming from that area.

Int.

440.

A few pics.

Well guys, after 2 1/2 years of mopar mechanical love, she is finally back on the road after her long neglected slumber. I wish to thank all of you for your support and priceless advice. I would especially like to thank John rocks on this forum, the guy is seriously a cuda yoda and an asset...

Was up till 2.30am thismorning doing wiring. Yay for me. :banghead: Only got wiper motor and washer bottle , reverse light loom from box to bulkhead, blinkers, a fault in the fuel gauge and very dull dash lights to sort out and I'm done. When I started, nothing worked at all.

Well I've had some good progress in the last few days with the wiring and I'm happy to say that I got the motor started for the first time after a 2 Year build. I've still got a few things to sort out before I can drive her, but it does sound Awesome. :burnout:

The motor was sitting too low on the drivers side engine mount, as soon as I raised it so the torque tube was exactly level, it gave me that little bit of extra travel it needed to get the clearance to the pp/clutch disc.

Msd getting prepped.

Had a friend over to start some wiring. Doing the ammeter bypass at the moment, connecting the msd and hiding that under the dash, running new earth's from battery to body, bellhousing and motor to body and dash frame to body. I have a whole heap of relays, inline fuses and auto reset...

Getting close now.

One side painted.

A mate, helped me make the exhaust, it's a 2 1/4 inch from the fenderwell collector back.

Finally some great news. I now have clearance between the pp and disc and the pedal feels good but still need to get the overcentre spring. I had one delivered yesterday but it looks like a clutch pedal return spring, nowhere near strong enough. I will put a torque strap on as mentioned...

Ok, so just an update, and thanks everyone for helping me out. I put a spirit level on the torque tube and raised the motor on the drivers side so it was dead level. This improved my clearance a bit but the z bar was still hitting. I removed z bar and took a small notch out and also bent the...

Ok spoke to Wayne at brewers, super helpful guy. He was saying that the z bar looks like it's slightly higher on one side and not parrallel Like it should be. He said that since all this setup worked in my 383 and I have all the correct bits which we went through over the phone and email...

Sorry I got distracted. Lol Gotta love that arse end.

There are maybe 3 mopar shops in this country that will do parts for big block a bodies. I called around and noone has the clutch fork bracket, so I'll have to wait 10-12 days for one to arrive from summit or brewers etc. This is my plan B. It's been sitting on my shelf for 2 years as I...

Ok, clutch fork is fine, not bent. I ordered an overcentre spring which should be here in a couple of days, so I'll see if that improves things. I spent the afternoon doing some clearancing on the crossmember for the shifter rods and reinstalled my hurst shifter. All worked well, and I was...

Thanks guys for your advise. My answers for your questions are - Yes- I have the little clutch fork return spring, it's a new genuine one. No - I don't have the overcentre spring, it was missing when I bought the car, but I will order one today. It did have a Borg and beck clutch in the...

The bellhousing, 130 tooth flywheel,clutch fork and fork bracket,linkages, z bar, were all off the car originally before I pulled the original 383 motor and gearbox out and now have replaced with a 440 and 18 spline 4 speed. I put new bushes in the z bar, and new clutch and pressure plate...

The clutch fork rod is not pictured because I bent it pushing the clutch in. I'll straighten it out tomorrow and have another go at it.

Linkages. So far I've got 1/2 and 3/4 but having issues with reverse.

Well I had a non productive day on the cuda today. This clutch rod system is doing my head in.. I still can't get a gap between pp and disc. To make things worse I decided to try and fit the mini starter motor in, and guess what.. It didn't fit either. The terminal ends on the top, touch the...

It's morning here, so I'll be back in the Shed to have another look at it all. At rest I have about 3-4mm of clearance between the T/O bearing and the fingers, which should be the correct clearance. Once depressed I can't get a feeler gauge between the pp and disc to get a 030", and the...

Ok, z bar in and adjusted so it's just off the fingers while clutch is up. The pedal is really firm, like shake your leg after a minute firm. I had my stepson push clutch in to check clearance between pp and disc but there is no gap?? I'm assuming that's not right. Also when depressing the...

Got the z bar in without any major issues. Just trying to find out how much clearance is required between the face of the throwout bearing and the fingers on the clutch. Can't seem to find it in my manual.

Hi guys, just a quick update. I ended up taking a couple of millimetres off the top of the clutch fork bracket and it now fits great with enough travel. Thanks for all your suggestions and input.