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I can only speak to the H-Beam rods I used...which did require clearancing on the bottom of two cylinders....no big deal though. The only other screwy thing I ran into was I had to have a machine shop align hone the mains out beyond normal tolerances because the combination of the stroker...

Rotational Mass is a big one....Wheels, tires, axles, drive shaft, tranny, tq converter/flywheel when spinning combined have a huge amount of inertial kinetic energy all of which resists a change in speed either accelerating or decelerating. To increase the rotational speed of all of these...

Set the piston stop so it hits some about before TDC say 20 Degrees make a mark on the harmonic balancer at the 0 Timing point on your degree indicator. Back the engine around the other way till you the other side of TDC, make another mark...right in between them should be exactly TDC. I've...

Depending on the Cams specs..overlap etc. the psi readings might not be exactly what you think they should be based on the compression of the engine. They do seem a bit on the low side though. Usually I'd say if all cylinders are within 10% of each other and it runs good, don't worry about...

I'm using a 72 360 block, if your going to be pushing 10+psi I'd say definatly get a set of H-Beam Rods. Even with a mild build your going to be looking at 500-600+ flywheel hp. If you go with Cometic Head Gaskets they recommend a 50 RA or finer surface on the block/head mating plane. I'm using...

As with KoryLiss I was having clearance issues with the Center-Link to Tie Rod end joint hitting a header tube. I took a piece of 1/4" and 1/8" steel and cut a slit down the center part way and placed it underneath the motor mount on the pass side and put about 1/4" on the drivers side. I...

This is a pic of my 69 Dart 360 with Air-Gap intake and Edelbrock Carb. I used a shorter filter than before and went with a lid filter as well to make up for it. I had to raise my engine up almost 1/2" to make the TTI headers clear everything which constrained things a bit more then they might...

410" With Procharger 360 Block Bored .040 Over Mopar Forged 4" Stroker Crank Diamond 8.3:1 CR Quench Dome Pistons Eagle H-Beam Rods Edelbrock Heads Stage II ported By Hughes engines, Commetic Head Gaskets Hughes Cam Lift .489/.524 Cam, Dur 218/[email protected] Hydrolic, Stock Rockers Edelbrock...

Thanks for the suggestions. Sounds like I should keep the boost where its at and not push things any harder than I already am. I was just on the chassis dyno on the 15th and figuring about 17% drivetrain loss puts the HP at about 615 and the Torque over 700 at the flywheel. The graph from my...

Yeah thats the chassic dyno graph from that engine. What are the most effective things to do to strengthen up the mains?

How Much HP/TQ is safe on a 360 bottom? I have a Forged stroker crank and H-Beam rods but I was thinking more about the stock main caps, bolts etc.. I know I gotta be close to pushin the limits. Just wondering what other peoples experiences have been?

The Heads are Eldelbrock RPM's ported, Commetic MLS head gaskets, and arp studs. Pistons are Diamond Forged. Mainly I'm looking to see the full capabilities of this engine, even if I tune it back down for the track. I'll probably use a race gas blend and start the timing out at 30 then maybe...

I've been running a P-1SC ATI Procharger for about 2 years now. 410CI smallblock,8.3:1 cr quench dome pistons, 4150 carb, water injected, 11psi boost So far I've been running about 28 degree's timing, just to be on the safe side. but I've been told with intercooling or water injection at these...