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I notice that you have headers. I drilled too big/too deep when plugging the air injection holes during header preparation on a set of smog heads once. Filled the cylinders with coolant by way of the air injection holes. Not my finest hour.

This thread makes me happy my car has little value to anyone but me. Having a somewhat rare actual legit musclecar like some of you fellas almost seems like a curse. I'm running an early 70s dual snorkel off a 400 on my 318. Air cleaner is bigger than the engine but the price was right being...

I had a bone stock 318 2 barrel in a 70 Challenger. Went from not turning a tire with manifolds to a one-wheel peel as long as you kept your foot down with headers. That was enough evidence for me. That said, I still have crappy manifolds on my Duster because I'm cheap and got tired of...

Almost every time someone asks me what I have in my Duster, I answer "just a 318." Normal response to that is "nothing wrong with that, one of the best engines ever made". FWIW, I think you running a Slant 6 is cool.

Wow, I've really sent you all down the rabbit hole. One of the things I love about this site. Thanks again for all the responses as I never had any idea the composition of motor oil was this complex. I'm assuming that seeing different pressure results across brands at the same oil weight is...

I should have known. Thanks for the info.

Thanks for all the responses. I'll try to answer any questions raised in order. I'm using a mechanical gage so no sensor to change. The more I think about it, it was acting the same last year with 10w30 as it is now with 10w40. The oil and filter were changed in March and it's been driven...

I've always wondered, once we get a Magnum and convert it to a carb., do the bores wear more like we are used to with the older engines? It seems that they probably would. Anyone have any first-hand experience?

I didn't think of that aspect of the oil weight. I ran 10w30 previously but tried the 10w40 for more idle oil pressure although it only gained me a couple of pounds. I also wondered about the filter drain back valve but I have had the "problem" with multiple filters. Maybe Wix filters aren't...

Another detail I forgot is that on a cold start, if I purposely don't set the choke until I've cranked about 3 seconds, the pressure will come up quickly with no lifter rattle.

It seems like the oil pressure on my 318 "comes to life" later than it used too and I'm trying to decide if I should be concerned or am just worrying too much as usual. On a cold start or a warm start after sitting for an hour, it will take 2 - 3 seconds for the mechanical gage to come up with...

This may not help the OP, but the SUM-6900 cam and lifters is what I ended up using in my 74 318. Bone-stock low-compression bottom end with the cam, duals, and an 1406 Edelbrock on a Performer intake. I currently still have 2.76 gears and a stock convertor. I noticed no loss of low-end and...

I don't think so. That's the same setup I've been using on my 318 for ten years or more since I put it back together with no a/c. I was concerned at first that the alternator belt might slip but I haven't noticed any problems.

That's correct. I had one years ago when I didn't realize how many good parts were there to save. I bought the car with a bad trans for $100 to get the 360 heads and intake and scrapped the rest of the car. The exhaust on mine had a precat on both sides of the y-pipe and then another larger cat...

In reference to the stop-leak in post 3, I had a 318 years ago that I did a freshen-up on with no machining. After a few heat cycles it started weeping coolant at the front and rear lower head bolt on the driver's side, although I never had any coolant mixed in with the oil. I ended up putting...

Never-mind, I should have looked at the pictures in post 3 before I asked. Pretty obvious now.

Just to satisfy my own curiosity, you guys are referring to the end holes in the heads for the exhaust manifolds needing to be sealed rather than the end head bolts? Just wanting to prevent me finding a new way to screw something up during a future head swap.

Hopefully I'm wrong but I can just about guarantee that if I tried to install an intake without the distributor out of the way I would end up with major vacuum, coolant, and/or oil leaks although I know some people are able to.

My money would be on the china walls. When I installed the 4-barrel on my 318, I didn't use a tall enough bead of rtv on the china walls and after several heat and cool cycles I was leaking oil out the back. After getting advice on here, I was able to "fix" the leak without having to pull the...

I actually did find one short video on my phone of a pre-hibernation walk-around last year. Not a very good video but better than nothing. 750 rpm idle. Hopefully this link works, I've never posted to youtube before.

Forgot to mention, my teen is a 74 no-compression motor also.

Honestly, it runs fine, but for my driving style I think I would have been better off just leaving the stock cam in place. I was replacing the crappy factory timing chain and decided why not while I was there. 2.76 gears, factory stall, factory 318 manifolds to duals, Edelbrock Performer, 1406...

Whatever this is worth, I put the 6900 cam and lifters in my 318 last year and have driven about 3000 miles with no issues. Used the supplied break-in lube, high zinc oil, and left the stock springs for break-in. I'm ashamed to say, the engine was cranked way too long before firing and running...

Don't know if you've already torn this back apart or not. I had the same problem with the Performer I installed on my 318. In hindsight, I'm sure I didn't lay a heavy enough bead on the China walls. I was able to get mine to stop leaking out the back by pulling the distributor, cleaning very...

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

That's probably my problem. I put one bead on the china rails but none on the intake itself. I was worried about using too much. Do you still think I have a chance to get it sealed without pulling the intake? I know the back isn't going to be very easy to get to and it seems to be leaking...

Yes, I cleaned the mating surfaces with brake parts cleaner. Probably didn't get a high enough bead. I also let everything cure for a day after torquing before I refilled with coolant and oil. I did have some trouble getting all of the bolts started, so maybe that had an effect on the rtv...

I know this has been covered before, but thought someone might have recent experience. 318 with Edelbrock Performer. After about 600 miles, leaking at china rails, front and rear. I used Ultra Black rtv but maybe not built up high enough? No issues at all with the intake to head gaskets and...

I'm currently running Lucas "Hot Rod and Classic" oil.

Thanks again to all. I'm a master at inventing problems where they don't exist.