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You need a respirator with a P100 filter and a cartridge that protects against organic vapors.

I think that one is for dust. Check 3M website as there are all sorts of cartridges

You got a way better cabinet than mine. It might already have a metering valve. Look the mod up on YouTube.

The good stuff (supposed) is $200/gallon up here. I didn’t try it.

How does you're blast cabinet work? Mine was a pos until I did the metering valve mod. They should come with one and not the crap siphon set-up.

I used a stripper recently. It worked well on some paints but not others (not good on oem). It took one coat per application and lots of scraping. In the end I used 3M stripping discs.

The sound resonated through the whole shop. By the way, a 10 db drop is perceived as half the sound level.

A 2x4 enclosure with Roxul Sound insulation will knock the noise level down 10db which is a lot. Back in the day we put out shop compressor up on an open mezzanine without an enclosure. That was a big mistake.

I would start by figuring out what insulating value (R value) you want for your climate, desired comfort level and energy usage . 2 inch foam is around R12. If you sheet the roof you could add at least R20 fiberglass insulation on top (my garage is R20 walls / R40 ceiling but it gets a lot...

I use a vacuum with a cyclone dust remover on big jobs. I have it hooked up to a hole in the side to remove the dust from the cabinet. It helps with dust leakage too. The metering valve mod gets rid of the siphon tube which plugs as you mention. I only run a cup or two of media and I have...

Don't forget to do this mod when you get it:)

I think all cheap cabinets are barely usable without modifications because of constant plugging. I did the metering valve mod (see Youtube, etc.) and it was a massive improvement. I also only run about 1 1/2 cups of media in the cabinet which I dump through a drain plug after 15 minutes or so...

My Rustoleum floor lasted over 10 years with some serious abuse. It didn't peal except under the door from cold winters. I top coated it last year and it looked good until I started another restoration :) For the price I'll do that again when I'm done doing heavy work, painting, etc.

I'm with the 'tall as you can crowd'. Yes 8' might seem cramped so I would say 9'.

My Rigid is a good tool

I bet concrete would be $40k around here.

Yeah no stripping companies around here anymore. There used to be one on the west coast that could do a body....it was $3500 and that was over 15 years ago. I will try and use the stripping disc around body lines. It won't take any metal off if I get careless. The 40 grit disc won't be kind.

That was my fear....expensive and hard to get up here. Unless its miles ahead I'll stick with the tools I have. I would really like a tig machine though :)

I'm just starting to think about stripping the paint from my car now that the new quarters are nearly finished. The plan is to use an angle grinder with a 3M clean and strip XT pad. It seems to remove paint pretty quick. I also have a 7 inch rotary unit with 40 grit discs and a DA sander. I...

I bought one of those at Barrett Jackson a few years back. I still haven't found a use for it :)

I'd love an ac/dc tig so I can do aluminum. You also need a bottle of argon. I learned tig on a big machine which was no good for finesse work. I'd hate to give up my Miller autoset mig for a multi machine that wasn't good at anything (not saying that is the case).

A 1/2" regulator that is probably rated for somewhere around 70 cfm seems overkill for a compressor that is likely around 10 cfm. Even a 3/8" regulator will be rated for around 60 cfm.

ps I also took from tips from this video when I did a bunch of 3/16 brake lines

I got fed up with my cheapo flaring tool (looked like the Westward or Inline tube style tool) as it always slipped. I bought the Rigid flaring tool (#345?) that has a handle on the side. It was a great investment. I think they are around $125USD (it was almost $200 Cdn)

I know this is an old thread but I have to say that the metering valve mod works very nice for me on glass bead. After constantly screwing around with plugging issues I came to the conclusion that the suction tube design was never going to work reliably as it fills up with media and then has to...

I built a tool and then one still wouldn't come out. It was easier to cut them off and buy used ones for $50. :)

I just used a product called Rustoleum Krud Kutter rust remover and inhibitor on a rusty oil pan. Its a spray gel so it clings. After an hour most of it was back to bare metal. The rest had a black coating with scraped off. I was impressed!

bead blast and polish? I just got my block and crank back from the engine shop...still in shock lol

Drip trays solve that problem :) I wish I had the room for a 2 post and a 4 post lift.

I've been working on cars on my 4 post for over 10 years. I use an aluminum floor jack or the sliding bridge jack to get the wheels of the ramp. Sure the ramps are in the way some time but it has done the job and its easy to get the car on and off the lift. Its also good for structural work. The...