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I've done a lot of research into spray guns. Its the internet....there are a lot of opinions out there :). The Black Widow is very popular as is the Iwata Kiwami 4 which I own. It sprays base/clear nice. Its one of the cheaper Iwata guns because its made in Vietnam (I think). I also bought a...

I’m basically going with the OPs plan. I’m a little concerned about hiding the door cut in lines but I don’t want to fool around mounting panels after it’s painted.

Learned something today....the shoulder of the pivot goes up against the other hinge half sandwiching the two pieces with a ton of clearance....factory design as far as I can tell.

There is a ton of slop in my hood hinges so I'm going to take a shot at fixing/modifying the pivot pin. The plan is to use a door hinge pin in the small hole and to drill out the big end of the rivet to accept it then weld it up (I'm hoping it it weldable). What I am wondering is how tight to...

I waited a year to get my Legendary front bucket covers. They are nice but I wouldn't say perfect. That said I seriously doubt an upholstery shop could reproduce them for less. Recovering seats is an expensive proposition.

I didn't know about that. They are only $80 on Amazon. If the hinge rebuild doesn't go well I will get them.

I ordered Rick's kit. As a note the ream size is 0.406" and the Dorman bushing kit says 0.420" for the bushing so there is very little difference in 'meat' remaining in the hinge body.

Founda link Restorations by Rick Kreuziger - Product and Component Restoration Detailed Information

I think I can find 3/8" pins and I probably have a reamer already. Springs are available but then I still have old star wheels or whatever they are called.

I'm looking at replacing my drivers side lower door hinge as its a bit sloppy. Looking at the AMD and OER hinge pics they are both bushed. It seems that bushed pins are not great as there is not much meat in the that area. Perhaps I worry too much as they won't get a ton of use. Shipping...

Not ragging on anyone but the word lacquer is pretty much meaningless. I think of it as a thick clear coat used to paint wood. Some use it referring to products available 40+ years ago that are nla and some are referring to modern clear coat and everything in between. Just an old guy's pet...

I thought the hood was all black or all body color on the 70 Dart. Is this true?

I'm no pro but I would say not critical unless your gun is a big air hog and you have a long run. Dry clean air is important as well as quality of your prep work and spray room cleanliness.

I just tried out my new Iwata Kiwami 1.3 on base and clear. I like it. My FLG3 is a primer gun. I also ordered an offshore Aeropro R500 A10 for $80 c/w 4 tips. I’m not sure if that will be a base, clear or primer gun. ps I hear the FLG5 is a very good gun

At least 2 if you include those that make partials but not a lot of choices

I'd be more concerned about the quality/fitment and ship around for selected brand. That said I bought front floor pan sections from Ebay. They were recommended here somewhere.

Sounds a bit tight. He will see when fitting the fender and hood.

Shooting for 1/8” gap would be a major job as these cars were never that tight. I’m doing a 70 Dart and will be very happy with 3/16” to 1/4” and matching contours.

The door should certainly come up to be even with the cowl. You have a fair amount of adjustment in the hinges.

Yeah not as good as the old stuff that had methylene chloride in it. What I hated with the abrasive strippers is all the dust so I gave it a try (its not cheap either....$100/gallon up here). I'm told it works much better on aftermarket paint vs factory paint which is why it doesn't seem to be...

I've been stripping my car this week. So far the best combination is chemical stripper and a scraper to get most of the thick paint off and then a 5 inch Clean and Strip XT disc on an angle grinder to get the rest. I then go over it with 180 on a DA for epoxy primer. The 3M Clean and Strip...

Looked at 5 used sets of hinges today. They were all sloppy at the rivet. Perhaps they were like this from new.

I was thinking the same thing.

I did end up spraying epoxy as a sealer 45 minutes before spraying base and clear (per the TDS). It turned out pretty good except one run that needs to be fixed. The job was a bit of an experiment and learning experience before I move on to the rest of the body although I will only spray...

I've never done that before. I know it is common but it seems strange to spray base over wet primer.

I'm told 600 for metallic otherwise 400. I'm sure I could get away with 400 for most of it. I'll see what the data sheet says.

I sanded the inner fenders 180 this afternoon and you can really see the low spots even without a guide coat. I'll fix up the worst of them and reshoot with the primer (it can go over bare metal) which will take care of a few spots where I broke through. I should be good to sand everything...

It was originally banana yellow (?) but I am not a fan. I haven't bought the paint but need to soon. The plan is plum crazy.

There is limited choices up here. I went with the Limco LP20 epoxy and Limco LP620 primer (not actually a high build primer). I'll use a different primer on the body where I need high build. Down south the Tamco and SPI products seem popular if you can believe the forums :)

I guess it depends on what kind of finish you want. There were some dents and dings I repaired and filled so I want to make sure those areas don't show. I sure bought myself a lot of work spraying the primer which requires sanding. I'll only fret over the visible surfaces like the upper...