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Unknown cam/installation is a gamble. If you're not willing to run it first then get a properly selected cam installed. You will be limited by compression which is I think 9:1 at best.

You are missing some critical info here like compression

There can’t be zero risk unless you’re picking it up yourself and then you can potentially be mugged

I keep saying that wanted ads just invite scammers. I won't deal with anyone that doesn't have a long history here.

I think its there way of saying they don't want to ship north

Not typically that high although shipping is pretty expensive in general up here.

I wonder if its $700 USD + $700 USD shipping to Canada like last time I checked lol. (don't need any this year anyway)

Bought a Chinese tig welder. I’ve wanted one for years but can’t justify the Miller price which would be more than 10x more.

I'm not sure if this is your noise problem but with non factory rockers you have to check to see if the rocker sits on the valve properly with the pushrods that you have. I had one engine that wouldn't oil the rockers if the pushrods were even a hair too long.

My friend and I built a number of flat tappet engines 20 years ago and I'm sure most didn't start right away. I doubt we ran them at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes either. We would have used ordinary cheap oil for break in purposes. There were no failures. Today's seemingly high failure rates are...

I've always wondered how much damage, if any, is done when the engine is just cranking. In the old days I think the break in paste got wiped off but the new stuff is supped to cling better.

There is another recent thread on cam failures that has a link on how to measure. How far should we have to go to make sure we have a good cam? As I said before I checked rotation and will run break in lube and break in oil and cross my fingers.

We used to do Rockwell hardness testing in the shop. Yes it leaves a permanent indentation so you have to do it on a non working surface.

Are you using an R3 block?

If you search for 1/4 mile hp calculator you'll find a bunch. Their results will vary quite a bit. I have no idea what math is behind them but I assume it is loosely based on physics. I would be interested in seeing some formulas for hp vs compression too (for a given engine) although there...

What are the hp estimates? The calculators are saying 550 hp minimum to dip into the 10's at 3400 pounds (i added 200 for the driver).

I would say a big mismatch between the cam and intake. Assuming you have real 10.5 compression it should do much much better with a matched intake and proper headers and exhaust.

I just bought the same tire for street/strip use but haven't run them yet. I would think it would be a fair weather only tire.

It doesn't look like a bad combo but I can't say whether it will develop the hp you need. The limitation will be the 509 cam and head flow. I wonder if you could do better on cam selection. It's probably worth investigating. As for the heads, I would see where you can get with them before...

That's a different build so it would be interesting to see if anyone can hazard an educated guess. Do you think that the MP cam makes for a good blower cam? Will the 7260's hold up? I guess there is only one way to find out!

You need around 500hp to get in the mid 11's with reasonable weight and good suspension. It's a lot easier to attain with a mild big block or a hotter small block. I'd like to get my Valiant into that same territory and will shoot for around 525hp.