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Engine Master did a dyno on headers before and after beating on them pretending to make them fit and loss very little hp, by the end them beat them up pretty good.

People will go on endlessly over the cid and bore difference between a 318 and 340/360 but an extra 23-43 cid plus a 1/4" bore waste of time. Funny how no replacement for displacement/bore ends at 360/408. If you don't mind a square engine you could be running around with 496 instead of 408.

Don't get this doom and gloom, if he can't go headers ain't the end of the world just has a little less power. And always can do a swap down road, sometimes and probably a lot of times people have to run a compromised combos. The only option ain't all or nothing.

If it's not in the budget run the manifolds, can always do the swap down the road.

True but the issue is everyone thinks the sbm weight is fine but bbm is not, but reality is by time it's swapped in it's generally fairly close to sbm weight unless you keep it 100% stock.

I'd say 383 has more potential mainly due to bore size, but for an average build it's a coin toss, Depends what platform you want to invest in.

Torque wise should be between a a 360 & 408, HP wise you got a fairly large bore to make all the power you want.

Minus half stroke plus rod length from deck height gives possible piston height.

Do you have heads capable of making power up around 7000 rpm?

I'd use the stock heads as long you don't need to put to much $$$ into them.

My guess it's got more to do with valve shrouding than physically fitting cause if a stock 440 is bare minimum a 4.34-4.375+ ain't all that much bigger.

Trick flow states this for the 240 on their website. "Longer than stock pushrods may be required. Minimum bore size is 4.320 in."

Think it's 4.32"

2,200 rpm’s @ 75 mph

I'd probably go with stealth heads there cheap and have decent hp potential, as for cam I wouldn't go crazy with 1st round, (you'll probably do many upgrades to zero it in). Depending on rear gear and cr, don't need a ton of rear gear the OD trans has a very steep first gear 3.09 problem is...

There's a few 383 articles in this list, might help you out.

1.47 torque per cid pretty impressive.

If you go with the 92% stroke to bore ratio which is supposedly be best compromise for stroke and friction that gives you a 4.15 crank for a 528 revver :)

Apparently in the 1.7-1.8 rod ratio + a 92% stroke to bore ratio, from what I've heard, obviously you can make tons of power outside these ratios, Inefficient power is cheap and easy now days.

It's can be built with a near perfect bore rod and stroke ratios. If one is into those things.

To me the more info the better, whether track, dyno etc.... 671hp @ 6400 rpm, 610tq @ 5300 rpm.

I made my guess with the Howard's #, it's hp probably somewhere in the low 500's and tq closer to mid 500. The article dyno build I posted only had 12 @ fifty degrees more duration and made 537hp/538tq.

Even though I don't agree 100% with moggoblue9798, I just think the focus on stroke alone is wrong, extra cid = equal extra fuel and air(tq), more piston surface = more psi across the piston to be multiplied, + the multiplication effect of stroke = tq, it's all interrelated. Most overlook...

I found something similar, eddy's with a "Our stick is a COMP Xtreme Energy High Lift hydraulic flat tappet, with specifications of 295/297 degrees gross duration, 241/247 degrees duration at .050-inch lift, and .545/.545-inch lift."...

My Guesstimation is around 525/525 hp/tq @ 5500/4500 rpm.

True but it's not like similar builds don't make similar power, It's not like it's impossible to guesstimate a ballpark number, It mainly comes down to heads and how well the supporting parts are taking advantage of what the heads have to offer.

Most engine builds we see make between 1.1 to 1.35+ torque per cid, so peak torque is generally more than displacement. (in gross tq #'s in dyno trim)

It's more about the cid difference eg. 360 vs 340. Longer stroke higher multiplier, Bigger bore more force to be multiplied.

Even if pistons are a bit pricey, still cheaper than buying a 440 core plus pistons or stroking a 360/340 to 408 plus cid. Funny how Chev and Ford guys would jump all over building a 7L ish engine.

The rpm most likely be better under 4000 rpms where your engine will live 98% of the time, but I'd still start with what you got and go from there, least when/if you go rpm you know exactly what's the difference and which you prefer. You might see no need for more than you got now and no need...