Search results for query: *

I can't hardly get my Duster to warm up. I have a clutch fan with no shroud, pulleys are 1 to 1. I'm thinking on removing the fan.... I have an aluminum radiator (Champion) made for a E-body with A/C. 160 T-stat (if my memory serves me correctly, been a few years).

They work great if it's raining, and you have to have the windows up and no A/C. The wing windows work even better :)

LOL.... :D

LOL Ironracer Was the disagree about: I really do have an early A ??? or.... I really don't run clutch fans on my classics ..... :poke::lol:

I don't have an early A, but I run clutch fans on most of my classics.

I'm sure i have 26" radiators in both my Dusters. I would check companies like Cold Case Radiators, and the such for best fitment and quality. Personally, I've not had an issue with Champion radiators. Both my Dusters do not have shrouds and they run nice and cool on the highway.

A nice 26" 2 core radiator is how I'd roll with it. Fitment wouldn't be a problem, and I'd rather have a good 2 core radiator (with large cores) then 4 skimpy core rad. Just my 2 cents, now = .04 :D

Sorry, this isn't what you asked.... But a new 5 blade clutch fan (like the vicious mopar fan) and a shroud will provide the most reliable cooling offered. It's why for many years when all the little front runners with sowing machine motors had electric fans, the trucks and full size vans had...

well, he asked what I recommended so I gave it in post 22. No response. So, water wetter? Easy enough, pour it in :) LOL

Water wetter :)

A GOOD two core radiator and a good clutch fan with a shroud should cure the problem.

Ok, if it's only at idle then it's a good chance it's your fan and shroud set up. time to upgrade

If it overheats at cruising speeds (40 mph or faster), it's usually a circulation issue or radiator issue. Usually a fan isn't even necessary when cruising over 40, unless you are pulling some long hills or overworking it. You need a clean block for good flow and a "sized per application"...

We like cheap! :) Also, thanks for subscribing!!

I think this is in the "how to" section of the forum

Answering your first question "Why?". Yep, I remove the A/C. I like under the hoods of my classic vehicles to be open, plain, and a happy place to be. I like access to everything. I also like manual steering and manual brakes. As little wiring and vacuum hoses as possible. Again, I love...

What I quoted is well spoken!!

I won't argue about it. You can hit the disagree all you want, but when I sit in a drive through on a hot summer day, my temp gage doesn't move but the electric fans will kick on at a certain temp. That tells me the engine temp raised but the gage did not. It's true in the newer Dodge mini...

Me personally, I would ditch the electric fan set up for a mechanical fan with a normal shroud like the factory.

just an over the counter rad from an autoparts store. 2 core I believe. Looks like a 1/2 ton pickup D100 rad. I don't know if his 318 makes more power than the 360 4bbl. I do know the full time 4x4 and almost 5000 lbs works it going down the road, and the 13 mpg proved it ... LOL Doesn't...

To each their own, I guess. I usually run a 160* or 180 t-stat and my cars never hit 200 - ever. We took my wife's '77 Ramcharger from Illinois to the Grand Canyon in '18, and it never came close to 200* We turned it about 2500 rpm's all day long in the heat.

Another reason I believe the newer cars gages are not moving with the engine a few degrees one way or the other, is the electric fans will click on at a certain temp, but the gage doesn't move up to that range. Gage stays the same but the fans will click on in a drive through.... Hmmmmm......

I don't like my older cars to reach 200* That's just me......

If the radiator and fan (be it electric or mechanical) are up to the job, it will cool. That's providing your block isn't full of sludge. I know it doesn't get as hot here as where you live, but I do not deal with cooling issues, even on a 90* day. However, when it's 90, i choose not to be...

True on the fans.... I too, can feel the difference on our mustang by grabbing the radiator hose between a cold Fall day or a Hot Summer day, yet the gage reads the same...... I think if the temp stays in "normal" op range, the gage stays still. Again, I could be wrong....

Somebody here that works at a Dealership or something will verify if I'm correct. I may not be.... LOL

I think the gages don't move around like the older gages. They stay at "normal" position without moving unless it reaches a temp out of that range. So you can sit at a stop light, drive thru, or whatever and it won't move even if your engine temp is climbing a little. I could be wrong, I'm no...

your fine.... make sure it's good for at least 25 below

I've never had any issues with Champion radiators. I've used 3 of them so far. 22" or 26", both have worked great for me. I put a E-body in my '76 Duster, had to modify just a little. I put the one made for the Duster in my '74, and fit perfectly no mods. Both cool fine.

that wasn't the Honda that beat ya, was it???? :realcrazy: LOL ... When I was newly wed, I raced a motorcycle with my 340 Demon. She thought we'd lost the brakes and was going to die as I was working the brake pedal (drum brakes). She loves old cars and even the dragway but doesn't care to be...