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To me, I can swap a starter in about 8 minutes on it. If that stops the draw, then I'm good. That was my question in the 1st post, can a starter drain the battery dead while sitting. I've not had that ever. Alternators, yes. But not a starter.

Thanks! Even though I put the starter on new, it seems to me that the draining kind of started around the starter installation. Didn't draw the connection till it showed to be drawing power. I'll try another starter when I get a chance.

Yes, I put the red/black between the battery post and it's cable. All closed, everything off, even pulled the fuses one by one and still pulled power. I thought I stated it clear in post one. Tried another vehicle that the battery does NOT go dead, and the reading was all zeros. So, as you...

I'm certain nothing is on such as a radio, tach light, or brake lights. Nothing. As mentioned in the first post, I pulled all the fuses. I even disconnected the connectors under the hood that would pull apart. Everything. The only thing that let the meter read zeros was when the main...

No load test, but it's the second battery and both did the same.

Thanks my friend! Post 1, relay has been replaced!

Thanks, I can do that!

Yes, I put in a new mini-starter (bought one for a Dakota). That was also about 1.5 - 2 years ago. I cannot remember if the battery drained before or after the swap. I think we owned the van about 3 years or a little more now and I know it used to not drain the battery dead.

Post 10

Also, I put a heater hose around the starter wires to protect them recently. However, this draining of the battery has been going on for about 1.5 - 2 years.

Volts. Factory starter relay. Big Stud

I will check how you said tomorrow. I appreciate it. Electrical is not my strong suit.

Good idea, thanks! I do find it strange that the new relay would act the same as the old one pulled though

Subject: '77 Dodge Van 318. Van runs perfect, and we have traveled through 7 states so far in it! Zero issues on the road. Problem: If it sits for a couple weeks, the battery goes dead Test Results: Disconnected the Negative post and put meter between cable and battery post. Shows "neg...

I've converted /6 cars to V8. I used the /6 wiring harness no issues. Of course, they won't be the perfect length.... I mean, distributor locations and all but it works no issues. Up to you if you want to splice to correct length.

If you aren't racing and plan on revving the engine above 6,000 rpms... doubt you'll see big benefits from dual points.

Yes, 30 would be a lot unless the distributor is locked

unplug the vacuum advance and see if the pinging goes away.

I didn't read all the other post. My experience has been it's a myth. Of all the mopars through all the years, I cannot think of one instance where one failed. IF it happened, it was so little so long ago I cannot remember it happening. I do carry one because they are so small and cheap i...

This has nothing to do with Sam. ... and I've said this before.. but we (the consumer) have ownership in this. For years we "price checked". "X" store wants 34.99 and "Z" store has them for 17.99. "Z" got our business and money. If "X" wants to compete and stay in business, they must find...

I bought a brand new "17 dollar" Napa, the good one, to put on my '74 Duster a couple years ago. Just as a precaution, ya know...... It discharged from the git go, I had to put the old one back on. Frustrating.

Jpar. No sarcasm. Should be a little "before" the terminal and when fully advanced, it should line up.

I did that because the van came without a ecu or ballast resistor, as it had a black box from the factory (TBI). Much easier to just do the HEI on the Chrysler distributor and it has worked well. Previous owner ran it with a 59.98 Chinese dizzy from Ebay which I didn't care for.

ALSO !!!!!! Make SURE when the reluctor passes the pick up coil that the rotor is actually pointing at a terminal in the cap !!! They can be way off. It's why I scrapped the china dizzy that was stuck in the Van Of War for a factory Chrysler dizzy and worked with that, because of...

If it hits one or two and not the rest, either: shaft it bent Slack in the shaft bushing or just bad forming of the two components that's supposed to be gapped Finding the problem will be quick with the distributor in your hand.

Another option: subscribe to 318willrun. He covers initial and total timing in videos. :lol::lol:

Yep, as stated above, just unplug the ECU and run your points distributor wire to the neg post on the coil.

Quality parts has tanked, including points as well. But, some name brands we know and trust has had a turn in the barrel too recently... That being said, I have no issue with pertronix but the OP stated he is old school and wants points. I understand that as well.

I agree with this ^^ Been there, done that!

Keep in mind, i don't run a vacuum advance on any of my cars, so a lot of initial helps compensate for no advance pulling timing into it. Yes, advances will pull timing up to and around 50* and that's ok on part throttle cruis'n. I've played so many games with VA over the years and came to...