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i agree on the core prices previously mentioned. if its not apart and you can't inspect it. core core core. i pay $250 for 440 cores and $75 for 727 cores when i get them locally. heads are usually junk anyways so i typically don't pay much attention to them. especially with OOTB specials you...

you can get the weight of small block vs. big block, i think they are within 200# of each other. you can swap to aluminum heads, pump, etc to save weight, but other things you can do are switch to manual steering, or convert to power rack, light weight brakes and calipers, fiberglass bumper...

not sure if this was directed at me, but the cheaper you get it for, the closer to the 2k mark you can be. having torn down probably 12 or so 440s, i can tell you that half of them were JUNK, or not worth the effort to rebuild. for me to spend $400 on a core, it better have a steel crank and...

@400 its no bargain. heads, crank and rods are junk unless you are doing a stock rebuild. and even then they could be wasted and out of spec. 200 would be a better price, but even then i wouldn't buy it.

man that motor looks good. what is the PN for that oil pan and do you know if it will work with stock steering/k-frame. ?

Probably better off finding a core 440 with steel crank and hopefully a decent set of heads.

not a lot of demand for these motors...and if you find someone that wants it, i guarantee they are not going to pay a penny for it, but if they were to sell it would want a million. scrap it and free up the space you'll thank us later.

i have 2 and they look just as bad. krysler kwality...

i would go 440 or magnum 360 .... I would NOT build a 383 unless it was original to the car.

i would clearance it...at a minimum if you ever drop a wrench or bolt it wont get stuck back there.

personally, i like the look of factory parts. but either schumacher or oem will work. i have 2 of the DC 440 a body k frames, and its a nice way of making the install look factory if that is the look you are going for. if your building a hot rod than just stuff it in there as cheaply as...

i have the schumacher headers (not installed yet), they aren't that expensive vs. the cost of finding OEM a-body manifolds or other factory manifolds + clean & paint. for a mild motor, they are arguably your best option seeing as the motor is already in the car.

what about a ford 9 inch? it would be nice to keep the easy gear swap aspect of a center section rear. if i could do my car over that is the only thing i would change. for what it cost to re-build a 8.75 rear, i could have bought a mail order 9 inch.

i am in the middle of a 440 build for my 71 duster, but somewhere along the line i started to do a full tear down, so at this point i am not sure when it will get done. what feed back i can add that hasn't already been mentioned is before you build the car, decide what you want to use it for...