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In my humble "opinion", it's perfect just the way it is height wise.

I had my K member reworked a few years ago. Had the perimeter welded and the steering gear mount and motor mount perches reinforced too. It's super solid now. The factory welds were minimal at best. Enough to do the job I guess. My steering gear mount was really scarce on weld. Looked good after...

I used Eaton Detroit Spring Inc. They've been making springs for over 80 years and the quality is top shelf. They have the original factory blueprints to build from. I live 1 1/2 hours away so I drove over to get them. Shipping would be pricey otherwise.

I agree with you on the boxes that say "Made in America". I'm beginning to think that they are referring to the "BOX" being made in America.

You're right, the bushing is clearly setting there like the big elephant in the room.

I thought the same thing!

I too had my K-member seams all welded and reinforced. I took pictures of it after I had it out and sand blasted. It looked like swiss cheese. Couldn't hardly believe how much weld WASN'T there. Welded reinforcement plates to the lca's and welded in frame connectors. I couldn't believe how much...

The idler arm shouldn't be moving up and down on the sleeve.

Mopar Performance ones are made in Canada if that makes a difference in quality, not sure. I hear some brands are Mexico and I'm sure China has a stake in the market too. I would think the Canadians might be of decent quality as apposed to the others. JMO

VDART is right about the idler arm. The bracket is hard to see clearly, but is the arm sitting inside a support that has a upper and lower perch for the arm to sit on? 67's didn't have that style as far as I know.

Get it beadblasted first and then you can get a real good look at the factory welds which will probably surprise you as to how much they aren't there and will need to be gone over. If the member is solid, I think it's worth using. From the picture it kinda looks like the same idler bracket I...

Thanks. I'll get back at it this spring and do some double checking to be sure everything is set correctly and then if there's still an, issue I'll be back asking for you guys input. Thanks again for all the tips and ideas. I really apppreciate it. This is Michigan and it's winter so I can't...

Thanks for your input. I know that I have to different lower ball joints as I mentioned earlier. One is a factory original and one is a replacment from about 35 years ago. I will check a few other measurements when I can get the car out in the spring and go over everything to make double sure...

My guess is that they're different as I know for a fact that they aren't bent as I've owned the car since day one. Probably just the way they tabs were stamped out and shaped back in the day and then welded on by hand and close was good enough. I guess I won't try to reinvent the wheel and leave...

Yep, those look like mine do. I'm probably just making a mountain out of a mole hill. I guess I always figured on both sides being the same only opposites. Guess that kind of logic doesn't apply to the way our cars were built back in the day. As Mr. Spock would say, " not correct, but logical".

Thanks for the help. I will play around with this and find the happy medium and let it go at that. Sometimes I think I overthink things the factory did and then I get into no mans land on wondering if I have something that's not the way I think it should be. I need to quit thinking! lol! Thanks...

The angle I shot this at is close but not good enough to let you see that both arms relative to the bolt that you have highlighted are the same space wise. But I did measure from the grease fitting down and the drivers side is roughly 1/2 inch higher than the factory joint is, so there is a real...

After looking closer I remembered that way back in the day I had a new lower ball joint installed on the drivers side. At least 35 years or so. Before the days of Chinese crap, but still a local parts house replacement. I took these pics to show the difference in the two sides. The tape measure...

Good observation Trailbeast. They are definetly different in regards to where the factory placed them and welded them on the arms. But I noticed something else to and I'll have the pics up in a few minutes to show you what I found. You made me stop and think of something that I forgot about from...

Thanks Memike. Hopefully this is a "normal" factory 40 + year old sloppy quality control issue and nothings really wrong at all. Like I said, I double checked the ride height and both sides are the same so I know the trsion bars are pretty close to being equal in adjustment. Maybe it's me, but...

I never gave it much thought before but when I put new bushings on my end links I noticed that the right side mounting tab sets lower than the drivers side. I took these pictures to show the differences. The ride height of the car is equal side to side so I ruled that out. The tabs are pretty...

Most of the stuff you buy is now made in China, hence $10 cheapies. But I also found out that China crap also comes in a couple different price ranges. You can get the really crappy cheapies or you can get the not so crappy cheapies. Not sure who is making the good stuff if there are any or even...

I'd like a set of those too. Tired of the squeeky polys. Put me on your list. The Delrin is great stuff. I used a lot of it where I used to work for machine change parts. We also used UHMW quite a bit too. Just as tough a Delrin and for some applications, it lasted longer.

Looking forward to seeing pictures of the completed set. I'm interested.

I agree with you that a lot of these cars have had multiple owners over the years doing who knows what to them and swapping everything from the kitchen sink to the toilet seat into them. But when you have a car that you have owned since new that's never been wrecked or molested and you know of...

My 69 had the same issue with my TTI's. I had to crimp the area where it was rubbing so it wouldn't rub through. I kinda sucks to have to molest a nice new shiny set of polished headers to make them fit. You can't tell me that with all the comments and complaints to TTI regarding the same areas...

I have them welded onto my LCA's and it definetly helped to strengthen and tighten up the front end! I would recommend them.

I have one that I bought new and used it one time to install my new ball joints and I never used it since. It is 1 and 13/16 inch size. If that is the size you need, you can have it for $25.00 shipping included. I doubt that I'll ever need it again.

Been using them on my Dart for 39 years. There's nothing wrong with using them as long as you don't try to raise your car up like a monster truck. Keep the pressure reasonable. 40 to 60 lbs.

Had the same problem with my Dart. The factory driveshaft which is .060 tube thickeness give or take a few thousandts couldn't handle the additional torque that my stroker put out and it wasn't long before the vibration got worse. At first it was very minor and I was chashing my tail to figure...