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Late at night I ripped a cooler line out when it caught on a tie rod end miles from home in the time before cell phones. Only had a gallon of pure Prestone and no funnel. I made it home on coolant/atf mix as it dumped out the line and onto the exhaust. Smoky fun. You'll be fine. I doubt any...

I don't see a kickdown lever at all. There should be a small arm clamped to that vertical shaft with the flat on it.

I'd bolt it in and run it

I wouldn't worry unless the oil in the pan was the same. I had crap in the tailshaft housing fluid that looked like hell, transmission is fine. Maybe that's why the seal is leaking

May be cheaper/better to buy a good working speedo. Last I checked, gauges for an early A barracuda were very affordable, yours might be similar

They can leak through the pinion spline and out the nut too according to what I heard. I siliconed the splines on mine and no leaks there

If the converter isn't fully seated it'll make noises like you're experiencing. More likely what the guys said above though

When installing the trans, did you use the bellhousing bolts to pull the trans into the engine? I'm wondering if you got the converter all the way in the pump.

So it was running, not making noises, then the noise showed up?

Has the engine/trans been apart recently, or did this just show up?

There's a guy parting a '66 on here that might have an axle or parts, I asked for you. [FOR SALE] - 1966 Barracuda Parts Car | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Big trolley jack worked for me. Jack pad under the pumpkin and yoke end resting on the middle of the jack. Added a drain plug while I was in there. Could've used taller jack stands Used to do it Rusty's way but with arthritis and other issues I needed to engage wuss mode. Oh yeah and air ratchet

Holy crap. Sorry man.

I'm sure you'll get your question answered here but meanwhile, There's a guy named Richard that does youtube videos for precision transmission, you could try hitting them up. That guy takes apart a transmission and explains every part in one breath. He does talk about lever options for...

I've got the 5.0 lever and no issue in 20 years. No idea if it requires matching adjustments or mods

What's the trans shop's take on this?

The engine can torque over and make the throttle lever hit the floor if it's too close from shimming motor mounts(I'm guilty), then your kickdown adjustment goes out the window. BTDT Original linkage?

This is kinda handy to have around: Some converter specs Torque Converter info for various transmissions

What JD said ^^ Hughes made me a converter to do exactly that It wasn't expensive Linkage I went lokar and while it's great it's also a compromise. Shifter will have to change or be modified. Had to clearance the floor for the kickdown and used a Hurst V Matic to shift it via cable...

Hot Damn!

Lol

This seal sat for a few years. Worked for a few hundred miles then bam

Sure it's not the kickdown seal?

Engage safety squints

You didn't use right stuff did you? Ratchet strap between the yoke and trans x-member maybe. How desperate are you lol btw don't do that

About $600, that's not bad. I haven't driven a one legger in a long time, curious to see what it's like

Yowza. Any back story there? I see my spiders have **** tons of clearance with their shims. Definitely nowhere near as stout as the locker setup

Update: metal flakes in oil were from chrome flaking off all 4 pinion and carrier bearing races.

That's a good one

Any time you're on the gas it's locked or close to it. Slow turns with almost zero throttle it'll behave until you touch that throttle. It's very sensitive. Getting on and off the gas results in a tail wiggle that gets worse with speed. It's probably like a spool but I haven't owned one...