Search results for query: *

Thanks! How to determine the pushrod lengths I will need?

thanks all silly question...how to tell if its a hydraulic or mechanical cam?

Was going to use a stock set of rockers, unless the 273 adjustables are recommended (still reading up on that)

First swap on my 318- my 79' heads to a set of rebuilt 302 swirl ports. Is there a step by step guide on removal/reinstall? I am curious how to adjust the valves, etc. thanks

anyone? bump

I want to find a set now...anyone got one?

Stinktooth, do they look like the link I provided? I wonder if I can make a set from scratch.

What years did these come on, and what exactly did they help with? Post 96 below for those wondering what they look like. My 318 has them missing currently. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=102646&page=4

Is there a way to remove each bolt, put on some sealant, and then reinstall, without loosening all bolts at the same time? I may not remove the manifold if I do not have to. I do have 2-3 bolts that have some oil pools around them. According to edelbrock, its 25 ft-lbs.

Looks like the front and rear of the manifold have the gaskets installed after all.

I can see the side gaskets poking out (light blue). Doesnt look like there is a front gasket, yet hard to tell without taking it off.

I am guessing I need to drain all coolant too...

Thanks all. I have a set of extra gaskets brand new I can use.

Hi all, Do I have to replace the intake manifold gasket if I take the manifold off the top of the motor? Also, what are the Ft-Lbs to torque the bolts back onto the manifold? I notice oil sometimes runs up and leaks through some of the bolts also. Manifold is a Performer RPM on a 318 motor.

Not to hijack, but how many lbs does it say for a 79 318 exhaust manifold bolt?

Timing adjusted, carb rebuilt (by me) and car runs great. No more surging at cruise as well. thanks all!

No, I haven't, no timing light unfortunately. I dunno how to check the vacuum advance so I will read up on it and try to borrow a timing light. thanks

I was messing with the carb before it happened, so I am going to rebuild the carb. Hopefully not too hard, and clean out everything well.

I have an extra electronic ignition unit, yet need to borrow/buy a chrome/orange box to install it and see if thats the problem.

Yes, its got an electronic ignition conversion kit (ignitor kit I think).

Gotcha, thanks all. I cleaned out the air bleed circuits on both sides. Its an edelbrock 1406 carb. Berlins, have you fixed it or just lived with it?

hmm....

They look brown and ashy.

Started by cleaning out the carb, and shot a video of how when I hold the rpms exactly at 1500, the rpms jump up a few, then back down to 1500, then up a few again. What to look for when pulling the plugs?

Gotcha, I will try those. The other day I was messing with converting my open breather to a closed system where the breather hose goes right back into the air cleaner. That is the only other thing I can remember doing, yet plugged the lower outlet on the air cleaner and kept it an open breather...

Started the car after a few weeks. Run STABIL in my fuel when it sits for long periods. Car is idling odd, so I let it warm up for a few minutes, and take it for a spin. Car stutters at 1500rpm, then jumps up in rpm and is fine. I put it in park, and rev it up to 1500rpm...feels almost like its...

Anyone have more info on these blocks? I myself cannot afford it, yet looks to be beefed up over a std block? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-X-Race-Block-318-340-Cuda-Challenger-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19bcc4860fQQitemZ110541178383QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Can the mods move this to fuel/air section please?

So I am looking to get a new air cleaner and base for my edelbrock 1406 4-barrel carb, yet the base I currently have, has a 6 inch opening (fits perfectly). Why do they say 5 1/8 base on all these websites, yet I actually measure 6 inches wide where the carb gasket to air cleaner base goes...

hmm...ok thanks all for the info...I will try my 90 degree adapter after all and see if i develop any oil leaks after a few weeks of driving. Does it matter what direction the adapter points? Filter pointed towards the back of the car, or towards the ground, etc? Thanks