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Good Deal getting it together and working. just be thankful you don't have the rear quarter windows to do. they are Bassackwards mounting and a total pain in the behind to align, Now I know why early A's didn't get power windows (but I still am doing it on the other convertible anyways:D) and...

I cheated and stole the power wire from the windows that way it would be 1 wire for operation . I'm hoping I can stuff my wires through that loom.

thanks ordered 2 sets. now to fed the power window and door locks wiring in. (88-93 ram door locks can be made to fit on the 66 , 65 with a different latch might not fit) you do have to drill 2 holes down below the latch to get them to work. and putting the rod on is a total monster. I'll see if...

Do you have a link for those wire looms? I've been looking for a better way than to hit the salvage yards and get 95-up ram door expansion looms since the darn things are huge! BTW it looking GREAT. I'm jealous since I'm pretty much side tracked on my convertible making parts for it and haven't...

Ohhh those kick panels look GOOOOOOOD! that's the first time I've seen em in a car that open. THANKS!!!!

mine is coming back apart for cleaning and beading. so I'm going to try the "heat and wax" method everyone says works great ti get the adjuster screws to move . we'll see. as for lubricant I use the Honda High pressure lubricant that goes into the drive shaft on the honda goldwings. it's a bit...

looking great, BTw have fun stuffing those wires behind the kickpanels. I ended up making a hole on the lower portion and putting in a tie to hold the wires away from the kick panels.....are you going to paint em? if so make sure to wash them down well and use Bulldog (or any type you preffer )...

they have been put in a 63, but the guy didn't give me any pictures to prove they fit as good as the 64's did. the kick panels I modeled it off of was a 63 also but I didn't have any in my 66 to begin with so I tookl whatever parts I could find at the time and was available. I can mod a new mold...

Yes I designed them for early A's 64-66 (have not tested on a 63 yet) they were made for my 64 valiant convertible and 66 dart convertible

you could but remember those pivot pins connecting the back 2 arms to the rest of the top Are a PAIN in the rear to get out in good shape(as in I have only gotten 1 out of 20 tries then had to get that side frame section replaced on my dime so I won't try any more). The roll pine is a monster...

ok 2 things pop out at me 1 the rear bow gets measured right where it's bent in the center of the Car to the dutchmans panel , so you will want to pretty much match the curve of the frist bow behind the header panel in front to the rear curve DON'T resize the cables on the sides. thay tell you...

measure the rear bow height. there were 2 sizes 24.5 and one other(might be 25 or 26, I'd have to search again). some top manufactures do ask and it makes a difference on how the top rear section looks for 65-66 only for some reason

waiting on my plastic to ship to me but just to make sure. Which ones? the small inner ones that look like this or this

Not worth the time since someone else make em. did you get the laysons link?(but I did crank out a set for me and it would have been cheaper to buy em since the first prototype is always the most money) . I like the "Niche" market. And I am forging ahead slowly on my 4 ongoing projects...

I got spoiled on my top of the dash being a satin(and 2 toned also using on the top tan colored side..... well "baby" powder 17 grams per ounce in gloss) no glare what so ever. Now If I could figure out how to do it on my darned 92 truck I'd be a happy camper. . but yours is looking really good.

I went to lowes and got some of the rubber shower pan stuff. (grey rolled up. some of it is .090 some is .060 or millimeters thickness) I used 2 layers wiht contact cement bonding them together and to the back of the housing. worked really well steering wheel is coming along well also. dash...

I did have another one that I was going to use. but I had the time since I was "on doctors" orders to stay sitting for 3 damned weeks and I was really,really bored.

yep, I used to have to fix almost every car that came in to the dealership new and that was one of my jobs. I also got to spray paint the "behind the grill " black the assembly line guys missed @ 16yo prep guy. they ARE supposed to be a press on fit (that is why the end of the tube is flared)...

I used 3m black weather stripping adhesive. I found a little on the more door parts car and it was gummy like the adhesive. (I used butyl in 1967 at the Jim Vince dodge dealership on fort street Lincoln park Michigan)

Looking good on the wheel. I wish mine had been in that good of shape. I had parts falling off mine. I bead blasted mine to get a bite on the plastic (well to get rid of rust too!) it took 2 cans of pc7 to get mine going again. and took forever to dry but it did harden up just as hard as the...

It was going to be a parts car, Got it cheap with new black top and all the interior seat skins and door panels new on box $1500.00 worth of new parts cost me $800.00 . But some jackwipe just had to make a comment on the way home at the gas station about "the scrapyard is the other way about 15...

Looking pretty good, just be thankful you didn't start like this pic. I pulled 22 lbs of newspaper and bondo out of the cowl area. the center grill was the only "metal" left in the cowl. and only the front core support and passengers side inner fender didn't need work..

ok I'd like some pictures of that part in detail if you could. Showing the mounting location and profile. I have a couple of them on the shelf (they are not perfect) and it's(along with many other parts) in my "Also Too Do" list but was unsure of "how many were on the fender to what it was...

on those pieces are they flexible plastic or rubber with a plastic core? Also do they have locators that go in those 2 holes on the headlight bucket? how are they attached

looks like you are going full tilt boogie on the convertible. dang, now I have to work harder to keep up with my parts making. If your not in a hurry getting the car back together. I'd like to get one side of those convertible top hold downs to make a casting from so I can reproduce a part. I...

probably used a spacer ring to bring the old smaller snout up to the later models larger crank hole. you can go that way but not backwards unless you gte a custom converter made to go later trans with smaller snout welded on the converter to fit the engine crank hole.

the glass one won't fit and even if it did you would break it when the top went down (the plastic curtain folds a little bit when lowered since the window is bigger than the well by about 2 inches.)

Sweet car extra nice that it's a convertible. if you can deal with 1/16" of metal trim showing on the top part of the seal. I'd get a hardtop windshield seal and save you a bunch of $$$. 0 One side (on the inside of the car has a little smaller flange). Externally it's the same. Inside the car...

Welcome, I'm a 66 dart convertible person.(even though I've had 64-65 convertibles too!) We are always glad to help

that is cool as all get out as for the spring removal or leave it I think I answered this (or maybe not since I was in vacation mode at the time) but toss the spring or loosen it. 1 turn. I toss them since my windows are lighter and it's scary fast on the up and down so I don't need it any...