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Not 100% on the 65 but my 66 had the reverse light switch on the column. the trans switch was a single pin for the neutral safety going to the starter relay. In mine it piggybacked off the fuse panel, to the switch, then to the rear harness of the car to the lights.

^^^ agreed. both bulkhead connectors, black in and red out, fusible link spade connector to red wire from ammeter are the ones that die first. and die as in melt and/or catch fire. in my rigs i deleted the red charge wire from ammeter to starter relay completely. also, i deleted the black charge...

i agree on that part. whats troubling to me though, is i have four extra main shaft assemblys from a 74, 76, 79, and 87 smallblock distributors, and not a single one is the same clocking position for the reluctor roll pin to rotor clocking slot. all of them were close, yes, but none of them were...

i seriously dig the info here. i owe all of you many thanks, and as of now, i believe i have it figured out. i received my corrected reluctor from rick ehrenberg today in the mail, and adjusted the rotor tip with the "15 degrees before the tip" pin slot. effectively advancing the signal to fire...

10-4. as of right now, the roll pin is in the corresponding slot to the correct arrow with the 2 lines, as it was in the beginning. your aforementioned order of switching the wires, observing that the spark pattern improved, and setting the timing last, thats exactly what i did. BUT, i had to...

i just checked out on the shop phista to see.....it re-positioned the reluctor the perfect amount.....the wrong way....NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!! :banghead: but hey man that was a very good thought. thank you!!!

one of my first threads on this amazing forum was about an intermittent exhaust "poof" sound from the drivers side exhaust on deccel, and very sluggish take off under hard acceleration. Ive had this annoyance since i swapped a V8 into my early-A. i had many awesome tips and things recommended to...

three words to sum it up, inconsistent spark pattern. There is no spark control with these things, they scatter the spark pattern all over hell and beyond making it impossible for a flame kernel to burn the same everytime it fires. bosch platinum 4's, and 2's do the same. Working at NAPA, I flat...

^^^yes I agree. apologies, I forgot to mention the headlight switch was original too, and it was reeealy crusty. had high resistance throughout the internal contacts....as we all know, resistance creates heat.....I installed a new switch the same time I fixed the connector.

had the exact same damn thing happen to me. the headlight connector roasted the black w/ red tracer power in wire. get the old melted piece out, soldered in a new brass connector, shazaam! lifes good! hopefully your issue is something that easy. good luck!

did a battery relocation in the trunk of my 66. did 1/0 braided strap from battery to rear sub-frame, 1/0 braided strap from front sub-frame to engine mount block ear, and 4 gauge braided strap from passengers side head to firewall. No issues sofar! power side is 1/0 braided stereo cable...

you running a gel cell battery? i had THREE AGM batterys crap out on me similar to what you have going on. they would lose a cell whenever they felt like it. i could literally hook up my volt meter to the posts, car off, read 10.1, hit the key, watch it tank to 8.5ish volts, fire up, (because i...

Little pointer, if you ever plan on welding in your car, for any reason, COMPLETELY remove the box from the car. i killed my analog 6A, and my friend killed his digital 7 series in his challie. hard lesson to learn. I use NGK GR4's, (V-power) gapped at .040" and my teeeny bopper 318's responded...

i ran a 78 amp I bought at work (napa) and our reman company is BBB Industries, they also own wilson reman company, and their "78 amp" alternator only put out 60 tops, and i went through 4 units before i actually found a legitimate 78 amp alternator. So word to the wise, have it bench tested in...

im actually very happy with mine sofar, both of em. powerwagons running one too. the rev limiter works very well, it doesnt cut the ignition, it just plateaus out, and stops pulling, but it doesnt pop, jerk, get erratic, its just a nice flattening out you might say. ive noticed the idle it much...

well since this is the only rig I have thats legal (trucks tags are expired) I saw this as a time to upgrade, went to a digital 6AL, and picked up some spiral-core 8mm wires. This roasted box is pushing 8 years old and im really not torqued about it dying, mostly irked about when it died haha I...

First time in 8 years ive ever had a problem with MSD, and it sure was a doozie...Im thinking it was a faulty resistor that decided to bite the dust and take out everything around it. it was an analog 6A. Just what i needed at 4:30 in the morning. I rechecked all the wiring, ground was zero ohms...

have the same setup in my powerwagon, stock 60A squareback. i converted it to a one wire with a transpo D7014 (36 bucks) regulator and bypassed the ammeter with 4GA braided stereo cable as my main charge wire. ive never had a problem.

in my 66 (its different than yours, but similar) the pins (two sets of 4) that are integrated with the printed board over years of vibration tend to get fragile and separate from the board itself, mine had this problem. I ended up using sections of paperclips through the hollow pins to hold them...

makes perfect sense. sounds like i need the proper wires reguardless. accel 5040B's any good? Or should i shoot for the razoo 480 ohm per foot MSD units?

thanks guys! i think i figured out most of the problem, i still need to measure the resistance through the wires, but i have a bad feeling my blaster SS was on its way out for a while now. fired it off this morning when it was cold, and i could hear the arching much more, everytime id blip the...

has something really weird happen tonightin the powerwagon. the coil wire right at the cap flat cooked itself in half. no misfire, no hard starts, hesitations, nothing leading up to this point. i was right in the middle of the busiest intersection in town and i hear this loud POP! then im dead...

from what ive read and have been told a graphite/stranded supressed core wire will isolate the spark energy more efficiently providing a more consistent and solid spark, solid core has a more drawn out spark energy. that and the radio frequency will stress the system and cause it to fail.

this is very true. even the wiring harness is wierd, it has factory looking bullet connectors for the ign. power feed wire, usually they were spot welded in the main junction point all together. pretty interesting nonetheless.

Did the early ones have the 6 rib aluminum heat sink plate that runs the entire length of the box?

:downtown::la::sign10::binky:.......:drinkers::cya::axe: <------isnt that how it usually goes? enter this life from a 'gina, then spend the rest of your life trying to get back in it. HAHAHAA!!!

haha!! :happy1: thanks for leveling the playing field leanna! so i FINALLY got a "pitcher" :D....here it is in all its scuzzy glory! i dont see any sort of part numbers, stampings, or any manufacturers markings on this thing anywhere....

a buddy of mine walked into work today and gave me an ignition box, with a pigtail. the ignition box, ive never seen one like it and im wondering if it may be something special or some sort of older performance box, its chrome with a 6 rib, red-anodized heat-sink plate. looks pretty interesting...

haha down boy DOWN!!!! dont make me grab the water sprayer!!

GR4 V-powers. MSD 6A blaster high vibration coil, 8mm graphite wires. was running champion copper cores, did ok, switched to v-powers for S&G, starts faster, idles smoother, and has much snappier throttle response. I likey.