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While you are in there get a 4.2 lever and adjust to "67" 273 Commando specs. You will also need a small inch pound torque wrench and a square socket. Up the pressure also. If the trans is older, you can also add part throttle downshift from A & A transmission.

I have seen kickdown levers in the 2.? range. I have a 3.2 kickdown lever I'll never use. If you want it you can have it.

66-67 up A-Body A833. No vin pad till after 1967. Check the casting # on the tailshaft housing with the Brewers site for probable output spline count.

Give them a call, they will know exactly what you need.

I'd take the rear to Moser Engineering in Portland, IN. Tell them you want it cut down to a standard A-Body Dana. They will know what to do. High Performance Rear-Ends and Aftermarket Parts | Moser Engineering

Check your 2nd band lever ratio. I run the 4.2 on my street cars. http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/42-2nd-Gear-Band-Lever__22916-42.aspx

That would work, I just don't like the aluminum "floating" main housing. The only gears I know of are the Passon set. I have a set, but have not put it together yet. It also uses an 18 spline Hemi style input shaft and gears. So I have no experience running it yet. I have run the standard...

I would not cut your car. Try having someone build you an O/D 833 with a cast main case. Then everything is reversible. You keep everything you are used to and all you need is the 3-4 O/D arm and rod.

I'm not sure. Just something I noticed that was different. My cars ran from 1964-1968. I do think my son's 73 Dart has the smaller bolts.

Sounds reasonable to me. As a design engineer, I always tried to make things only go together one way.

The later crossmembers had a funky 3/8 bolt with a tapered 1/2 shoulder under the head. 3/8-16 x 3 3/8 long. Bolt head tapers to .490 just under the head.

Never had that happen yet, but I don't use the O/D main housing.

Oh yes, for sure. Much better to use your original bellhousing. Then all you really need is the O/D 3-4 shifter linkage rod and arm and you are good to go.

I've swapped O/D gears into standard boxes. I personally like the O/D gear sets, but I swap the O/D gears and mainshaft into a standard small bearing, 307, A-833 main case to get away from the loose countershaft and larger 308 input bearing. That way I can also swap The O/D into a standard...

Not true. It can take the same gearset as any regular A-833. 4th gear is always 1:1. The O/D 3rd gear uses a smaller diameter on the mainshaft. It is the last gear on the mainshaft. Just before the 3/4 synchro assy. The 3.09 input shafts are the same as some O/D boxes but that is the 1:1...

1967 Formula S 273 sure grip, 3.23, four speed, original

I'll take pictures of my original 67 and post them later.

Check the fluid and run it. I have 8 3/4 rears with 400,000 miles on them, all original working perfectly. You will find out if it is noisy soon enough. This aint no Chevy.

Yes, you can just swap the mainshaft and tail housing, everything else is the same. It has to be the 66-67 slant 6 or 273 mainshaft and tail housing together for the 26 spline output or 68-75 standard mainshaft and 68 up A/F-Body tail shaft for the 30 spline output. The small O/D tail housing...

Probably 3.55 gears. If you get lucky, a sure grip and axles that could be cut resplined to A Body length.

You absolutely can use good 10" drum brakes all around and have a safe car, "todays standards" are not that much better in day to day driving. I drove 1 hour minimum every day in Baltimore, MD rush hour traffic, every day for 25 years. I don't need the supposed superlative in everything for...

I grew up driving boats before cars. I time lights. I'm not stupid enough to ride someones backside. If someone drives like a moron, I get as far away from them as possible. I've probably put half a million miles on A Body Barraudas with 10 in drum brakes and never needed more. Shouldn't she...

The bolt pattern on the flywheel is the same for the /6 cars. You can use any clutch and pressure plate, including the 10" scalloped clutch for the /6 trucks or the 67 down 273s.

The throw out bearing should be the same as any 23 spline 3 or 4 speed. As far as I know they only used 2, one for the 23 spline and one for the 18 spline input shafts.

Wow, you put a slant six O/D behind a 440 B-Body and it didn't last? Did you do anything to that aluminum main housing and cast gears or just pull it and run it? They didn't last behind a 225. Were the gears splits too much for your 440? My cars are not show cruisers, or putters. Nothing...

I know you love to crank out numbers. In driving my cars the first gear really does not matter. It is just getting you started. Power bands in 273s and 340s turn on around 3,000 rpm, up till then they feel like a normal engine. Once in the power band power shifts drop about 1,000 rpm between...

I am more than a little amused, having run them with small cu in motors, and loving them. I know you are running a 360 and 8 speeds. Driving on the street in one of my cars, the O/D is not a low rpm trans since both little engines will easily rev past 6,000 rpm smooth as silk. The splits do...

To each their own.

It all depends on what you do with your car. I've run the O/D with a Commando 273 and a souped up 170 and loved it. If you were drag racing or road racing it would not be a good choice. It is nice to be able to cruise at a decent rpm and not cobble your car up. I've even advised someone...

You are not correct. I do it all the time. You just need to swap the input bearing to a 307 and of course use the whole gear set including the cluster gear, input shaft and the rest. Some early O/D used the 307 and small bearing main case, at that point he could just swap front bearing...