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Compression is not a problem. Usually 516 heads in 67, but you never know till you check. Should have forged crank and good rods. Cam, intake, a good Carb, quick curve distributor. I'd add a high pressure spring and a windage tray if you are going to wind it up. Get as much info as you can...

Where are you and where do you want to end up? What head castings do you have?

He is old school but his cams run fast, even today. And since you have adjustable rockers...

Call Racer Brown and get a custom solid cam for that puppy.

Those were pretty hard on the valve train. Assuming the duration is @ .050. Might want to get something in the 268-284 duration and under .500 lift

The general rule applies whether 273 or 408. However the other general rule also applies pertaining to rpm. Will your valve train and short block handle the required higher rpm to make that power? And both are very simplified generalizations.

Those are the smaller port heads. Someone had swapped them onto my 68? May have been original but I doubt it. Some guys, would not sell their good heads with a car or motor. Any 68 up heads will run better than what you have. Even if you take a loss in compression. 383 pistons do not sit...

Do you have heads on the 67 383? Casting number?

Sorry, they are slated for my 68 383 Formula S. Old burnt oil is the best rust preventative.

I measure 4.14 + or - .002 of an inch. Heads appear to be unmilled.

I know small block reference points, not big block. I'll try to find if and where big blocks have them.

I have a set, Do you have a picture of the block surface? Has it been milled before? A lot of us can tell by looking...

68 is the start of the good ones. 72 with the TQ is another really good one.

I would think 30-40 HP easy. The 440 AVS is a great carb. I would think that the Torker, the vintage Edelbrock dual plane with the Chrysler number, Offenhouser, or the Holley Street Dominator. Pay attention to the choke set up , or lack of one. Definitely run the 915 heads, there should be...

906 heads, milled .020, home pocket ported, great valve job, and a bigger cam.

I put 2 or 3 cam sensors in my 300M.

906 heads flow 230/170 plus or minus 5 cfm. J heads flow 200/140 same spread. Stock unported. Potential for the big block heads is no comparison. Stock big blocks require no special parts to go fast. I've had both and still have 2 383's, no 360's. I like high winders, 383's are. On the...

Ford 460 one year only, 1974 I think. Also International Harvester, not sure what years. Those are the only OEM TQ's that I know of.

Just bought a new flat-tappet cam from Isky. They do not like synthetic oils, especially low viscosity index numbers ( ie 0w-15 and 5w-20 ). They feel Brad Penn Grade 1 is the best, but also recommend Valvoline Racing or Pennzoil GTP Racing Oil for flat-tappet cams. The only Synthetic oils...

Agree. /6 bars are smaller diameter between the Hex ends. All "A" body Hex and length is the same.

All great advice, another reason to slow down and do one thing at a time, is to know what effect that one change made. It's hard to know if that carb made a big difference, when you changed 3 other things. I do know that when you are rebuilding something, it does snowball into a lot more...

I'd run the hemi, I'm sure it wouldn't take much to hop it up. I'm not talking money, since Hemi stuff is more expensive. Good valve job, cam and springs, modern 4 barrel carb? Should get decent milage and wind up quick and high. But only if you were going to keep it. If you might sell it...

Cams can have the keyway off also. That's why you should check them when installing in an engine. Then you have a good known baseline to start tuning.

If the bores are good, your pistons are about .02 higher compression distance, to make up for the newer open chambered heads. If you get early closed chambered heads or 302 castings then your compression should be good to go.

750 cfm at least.

We have 2 cars with Super Stock springs, Both cars sit pretty level in the back. Within 1/2 inch from side to side. Front to back is a whole different story. If you get Super Stock Springs from a dealer there is no shipping.

Are they super stock springs? I thought they set pretty much the same height.

Good advice from Moper, 3 angle valve job is all we used in the OLD days, only grind the seat till it cleans up. The farther the seats sink down the less power you make. You can blend the bowl sides to remove sharp edges, flash, and blend the bottom seat cut. Unless you know what you are...

Yes, that is the correct way to do it. As you said, there is too much dwell at TDC till the crank starts moving the piston down again. To be fair, it was a 60's engine with the bolt on timing tab. Almost all are off in my experience, most not worth worrying about. Unless you are as picky as...

I've seen them be off over 10 degees. It always pays to check!!