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Everybody wants to see at night but the aimed correctly adjustment is when 2 cars are coming straight at each other on a straight flat road.

Check the air gap on the dist. it can cause the key switch problem you described. Don't get to caught up on the voltage drop yet. shoot 3-5 amps draw thru the coil primary. Voltage/resistance =amps. Resistance of primary windings of coil measured with ohm meter (coil disconnected) plus ballast...

Lots of confusion about this topic, I have had coils leaking and overheating. I put an finned aluminum heat sink strapped to the coil, so far OK.

Uh, no. Is that why fuseable links links are used in your home or industry and anywhere else. There are slow blow fuses for momentary spikes and surges. A blown fuse indicates a problem how you deal with the problem is up to you. Fuseable link is nothing more than link of smaller gauge sized to...

Put a amp meter where the link is an measure the max draw, then replace the link with an inline fuse and of corse keep a spare in the glovebox.

That jumping of the meter is probably the meter is unable to average out the mechanical aspects for the IVR. It is a 12V duty cycle output that 'averages' out to approx 5V, not a pure 5vdc. Try a different DVM or an older analog meter. I have had a few original IVR have a low duty cycle output...

Easy remove the temp sender connector from the intake and measure between the connector and chassis ground. You should be reading about 5Vdc with your DVM.

Use star type lock washers to bite into the (clean) connections with dielectric grease. All the little things (voltage drops) end up adding up to slow cranking

Don't see how it could hurt, headers may be close,every application is different. Helped me costs under 20 bucks.

Heat shield or wrap for starter

Did it ever crank over Ok? If so could be weak battery. Not sure what 1ot. is I assume its 1 gauge. I think you may need to go with a larger size (USE WELDING CABLE) for starter and chassis not the regular automotive cable, double check connections use dielectric grease. Unsure it the frame...

Yes like an on/off switch

Get a resistor close to 27 ohms which I believe is half scale. Disconnect the wire to the sender and attach resistor to it other end to ground gauge should read half way.

Go to the local junkyard and pick out something that looks OK and fits. May pay 20 bucks. If it fails Oh well your not out 150 and buy a new one and use it as a core which is over 20 at Advance Auto. RECYCLE. Also batteries seem to last much longer when mounted in the trunk.

12v constant to one side of light ground goes thru bulkhead connector when trans put in reverse.

Just take a piece of wire and connect from the body of the sender to neg of battery to see if the gauge moves.

Lift the wire off the sender and measure voltage from the wire to ground, it should be 5v. if the regulator is good. If OK use a resistor or variable resistor to simulate the sender resistance. Maybe google the span of resistance from cold to hot to find what resistance is needed. Did the sender...

Hook the ammeter wires together without the gauge, look out for loose wires shorting.

If your running EFI then I would run a smaller separate ground from battery just for the sensitive electronic this prevents ground loops.

I would used welding cable as it is flexible and tough. The Ford type solenoid is a good idea, this makes the 10 feet or so of cable only hot when cranking.

No answer? Egg on the face!

Yes you change the single to dual socket and add a jumper wire to upper brake/headlight element so the top and bottom lights are in parellel

Yyes

Is the 1156 hole different than 1157? I remember it being the same size.

easy to do, just use an 1157 bulb instead of the 1156 and run the extra wire from the top element. I don't think it would do too much from a safety standpoint but it sure wouldn't hurt. I have seen pics of 66's with a 3rd brake light and it looks like it was born that way. May put one in mine...

This is a information sharing forum it is up to readers to sort it out. Lots of interesting posts and problems, what REALLY aggravates me is when the OP solves the problem(s) and does not share.

Replace the factory POS tach and sardine can sending unit with newer accurate unit. You could put a factory vacuum gauge in its place, a useful instrument for tuning and operational info.

I believe the power for the inst. lights comes of headlight switch reostat, is the knob turned all the way off? If that is OK check the PCB for power and ground on instr. light traces...all you need is power across the bulb to light. No good there trace back to connector etc to see where you...

Voltage at sending unit is only 5V your test light may not light use a multimeter

Yes the stock mechanical reg. is "stuck" open your getting a full 12V to the gauges. I would not keep testing the gauges they will probably burnout quickly. The mechanical regulator works on the duty cycle principle taking the 12V and pulsing it on/off to get and averaged 5v output, crude but...