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sounds like its just as easy to get a $40 stock replacement electronic ignition distributor and wire it up!

those multi fuel engines had quite the valve arrangement (one intake 2 exhaust), they warmed up on gasoline, then when you pull the handle they would open the carburator, and shut off the small exhaust valves used to bleed off compression, compression was then bumped from 10:1 to 18:1 and it...

actually they did make a slant diesel prototype, it did make it into 5 test cars, there was a thread on it not so long ago slants are built way stronger then a 350, or any mopar v8 for that matter, so they would hold up quite well I would think

fix the carb or put a new one on, people have ran these engines for over 40 years without the need of a drip tray

sounds more like one set is for a high torque mini starter, and the other is for a factory very large starter the mini starters can be had at most junkyards off dakota/rams/ram vans from about 1989 on with v6 and v8 engines, for usually $15 there about 20lbs lighter and spin the engine quicker...

wide band oxygen sensor and I think he means G tech air fuel gauge

I had a slant truck, 1986 2wd with 727 transmission, it got 14 MPG and foot was to the floor most of the time, bought a 318 engine/ 727 from same year truck, and get 16 MPG and never have to go over 1/4 throttle and can cruise at 70 MPH all day like I said, cars good; trucks useless

a slant with a few upgrades is a nice engine, if in a factory car; why not? why ruin a clean rust free original car with a small block I love V8's too, I'd never own a slant truck but cars especially A body are decent

do you mean the condensor in the distributor? engine won't run without condenser in points igntion. wire comes from distributor and hooks to coil negative

nearly 1/2 of the A bodies made were /6 standard, most common transmission is A833 NON O/D

maybe they were refering to the hyperpac 6's?

seems to me there was a chrysler engineer who got his hands on a mould of some sort that Chrysler was experimenting with thats what the story is anyway

K frame will not fit from volare to A body, neither will most of the steering components, however the spindles and upper control arms will

on the later slants a v8 flexplate will bolt up, not sure about the early ones only mods you have to do to the crank is take the pilot bearing out, sometimes this can be a real PITA but after that its straight forward, same bolt pattern for bellhousing, might need a different driveshaft, and...

if its stock you have a points distributor, they require maintenance; you don't just throw them away when the points fail; you need to read up on points and condenser service, probably all you need, takes 10 minutes to change and the parts are under $20

downhill with the wind behind it probably yes lol

I've run gas that was bearly a liquid before, car I purchased from salvage yard, trust me it wasn't bad gas, the exhaust would burn your eyes the smell of old gas was so bad I would point to a very crappy rebuilt head, bad gas doe not go on the vavle seals, it goes into the combustion chamber...

I've yet to see it, I've seen cars running on so old of gas you can't stand around them because the varnish smell is so bad it will burn your eyes and it didn't bend valves

thats not from bad gasoline, thats from something you did wrong

no the slant 6 and v8 transmissions do not interchange unless you buy the very expensive scarce as hens teeth adapter and it was the feather dusters that got good fuel mileage but that was because of all the super light aluminum parts used and gearing and much more

first off why would you pull the engine in a california stepside dodge? around this area a truck like that in good shape will bring $5000+ all day also a /6 truck is a pig; people will argue but I had one, wasen't long putting a 318 in it

leave drain plug out until you get most of the oil out, put it back in and put roughly 1 gallon of diesel fuel in the oil filler, check to see if it shows after awhile on the stick, start and run for 5 minutes or so, drain and see how dirty it is, you may have to repeat a few times has worked...

if you break the block with a sledge hammer you risk breaking or bending other rods unbolt the crank, leave the rods bolted on and pull it all out

not without major floor surgery it won't!

agreed, a slant is great for cars but thats where it ends; would I go out of my way to buy a slant truck or dumptruck? hell no, if the price was right and I wanted to do an engine swap I probably would slants are a 27 year old engine (at the very newest) sure they probably did put out 215...

/6 4x4 trucks were common at one point, whats so rare about it?

yes the slant 6 has torque, but its also a very crappy truck engine, works great in small cars such as A bodies but thats about where it ends can you imagine driving a 3 ton dump truck with a slant!

yupp just about as useless as a slant B body car or charger too; enough power to do the speed limit at 10 gallons to the mile! my 1986 D150 had a slant 6 in it; worked okay I guess... til you put a load on then it was hard to the carpet to climb hills!

I believe the person that did the swap had it in a white wagon that got smashed up, don't remember the fellas name though personally I wouldn't do the swap I have 3.9's and they have the worst fuel economy to power I've seen yet for dodge