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I would be inclined to change linkage adjustments first, then check fluid pressure and maybe turn it up, it could also be the governor weights. I rebuilt my 727 with a bolt in sprag, 3.8 lever and 12 springs, new clutches, steels, and seals. I should have replaced the RV govenerweights. It’s on...

Doesn’t the band lever correspond with how many springs are used? For example 4.2 15 clutch springs 3.8 10 or 12 springs etc.

Good point missed that sorry.

Output shaft bearing? probably not changed out during rebuild. Sounds like a typical symptom.

9 teeth on pinion and 41 on ring gear. 41 divided by 9 is 4.56 does sound right? If so I am over joyed, I have a ratted out 67 barracuda I may build with a 360 tunnel ram, the rear is 49.5” wide, I’ll do the 3” inboard conversion on the leaves. I also have 10x15 welds that I’ll put a 28” drag...

Rob, it’s 80-7326 I’ll count the teeth when I get home today.

Fellows I recently pick up a Dana 60 with a spool and Richmond gear set. I tried the google machine and cannot seem to reference the part number. Do you by chance have an old part number catalog for the gear set pictured?

Looks perfect is the axle tubes of equal length?

I used the trans go kit and left it in and mine does not shift hard at all, next time I’m in there it’s going and I’m installing a blocker rod.

Originally drums all around, now have 73’ and up disk brakes.

I will not say that my set up is right but I have disks in the front and disk in the rear no proportioning valve the car stops pretty darn good better than the 9” drums I had. I am using the stock master cylinder. Again it probably not right but works better than the what I had for sure.

This site has a lot of good information The Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle Swap I did mine for a 67 fastback. 67 Fastback getting 8.8 rear

Buy Tom hands book. I rebuilt mine first time with just his book and happy with the results. I’m not found of reading and following directions he’s got nice pictures for us special folk. LOL!!!

It’s only worth what someone’s willing to pay for it at the time your selling it. Having said that. some people have deep pockets so maybe. I buy 727’s for 50.00 and build it with a 150.00 kit. Sometimes a bolt in sprag or billet servo’s are in order. You have some nice parts in yours but I’m...

8.8 is a great alternative if you can’t find a reasonable 8.75, I’m happy the way mine turned out. I have 3.27 gear in mine with open diff. I do have a new trac loc to install, if I ever get around to it. I bought two explorer axles just to grab the short axle out the other. Built one complete...

Funny you’re title is almost the same as mine. 727 Time to rebuild

I went with the cope racing bolt in, I think it’s about 100 bucks for the stock modified four bolt. There’s better sprags out there for more money. But a stocker should be fine if you’re on a budget.

Ok deleted my last post cause I measured the wrong spot. I have one support that fits the case and one that doesn’t. One slides right in and is the one that came with the case 71’ or later yr. the other came from a 69’ it’s slightly bigger it might fit with force but wasn’t about to try it. I...

I have an empty case and a couple supports laying around, I can probably measure to see the difference. I’m not really sure what’s going on there, it should go in without much effort.

Good choice if you have the means then....hell yeah!!!!Time to trick that thing out. Good luck, let us know what else you find during tear down and your plans to beef up. I have the 360/727 combo as well, during my rebuild I added stock style rebuild kit from northern auto, the TF2, billet rear...

The filter looks ok to me, dirty yes, but otherwise normal. If it wasn’t slipping, and you were shifting early. Adjust bands, New fluid, filter, and small incremental adjustment to the kick down linkage, drive, test, adjust, repeat making notes of where the shift point is.

Not seeing the filter.

Depending on how long it has been since last service there’s nothing there that I would worry about. Not seeing any heavy clutch material and you will get small particles of metal or otherwise as normal wear. Don’t think the early 71/72 has part throttle kickdown, unless it was added. I think...

If all the wear happened on the shim and bearings then the housing is fine...in theory. Now if you had a situation as the shim was actually got caught spinning then maybe I could see the housing getting messed up, the carrier rides in between the bearings and shims. Check the housing rear good...

If you want to set up a pinion a little easier. The pinion currently has a crush sleeve. What you can do is buy the crush-less sleeve and shims, then measure the current crush sleeve. With the available shims and new sleeve you will have the pinion set to what it was originally. But I’m guessing...

The carrier should be fine because the bearings are pressed onto the carrier. I would just order new bearings and a shim kit. But my question is what’s the gears look like? The ring and pinion maybe toast because of that slop/play.

Either bearings are bad, or someone installed that carrier without shimming it properly. I would pull it add some new bearings and shims to get it within factory tolerance.

Make a pump puller if you need to cheap. I got everything from Lowe’s less that 10 bucks.

Northernauto has full rebuild kits probably cheaper. I built some cribbing to get mine out.

I used doctor diffs 1/2” offset without problems.