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Ok, I removed the jumper wire from the ballast resistor and now have spark and it started.

Ok removed the plugs and spun the motor by hand, turns freely no drag. With the plugs removed, 12 volts at coil in run, 8.7 volts in start and has spark from plug. Reinstall plugs and voltage back to 8 in start and no spark. So with and without plugs I'm only loosing .7 volts from cranking...

Yep that’s what i plan on checking next. Pull the plugs and spin it over be hand and see how freely it spins. The plugs did sit out of the motor for about two weeks, maybe some rust?

I swapped out the starter and battery, same results.

Did some more checking today. The yellow wire from ignition switch unplug from the relay box on the apron I get 12 volts in start out the wire. So with the yellow ignition wire unplugged from the relay box, in start I get 11.5 volts at the coil. so everything seems to work right bypassing the...

yes, rotor turn when cranking and the correct coil from FBO.

not sure this tells me anything but was trying to check ignition switch. I remove the start wires connector from the ballast and removed the wire off the coil +. then check voltage at the start wire connector of the harness and it was still only 8 volts when cranking. now there are 2 other wires...

My ballast is only a 2 pin with jumper not 4 like the drawing. Which the jumper eliminates the ballast as I understand it from FBO system.

Had the battery test, which was good just a little low so charge it for me. 12.46 volts 760cca I pulled the D and bench tested it worked fine. I put in my spare D anyway which also bench test good. I still have no spark. Voltage in run at the Coil + 12volts, my ballast has the jumper wire on it...

The has was running fine a month ago. I change out the fuel tank and pump. I didn't wire the pump up fully just yet. running wiring straight to battery and switch to check leaks. I did have to remove the ground and exhaust to get the tank out, but I think that is fine. The battery voltage when...

The ballast is for FBO and has the jumper wire running to both side of the ballast. If the battery is dropping when cranking, wont running a wire to coil drop also. yes I have mini starter.

swapped it out with an orange one, same problem. just check the battery 12.34 volt and then drops to 9.8 volts when cranking. Bad battery?

Did some more checking. checked + side of coil with key in run got 12 volts checked + side of coil when cranking got 7.5volts checked battery post on starter "large lug" when cranking drops to 7.5volts check battery- to inside trunk cable disconnect 12.25 volts = checks battery to ground on...

I check the voltage on ballast when cranking and it drops to 7.5volts. I do have the FBO set up with the jumper wire across the ballast. Also have extra ground with from the ecu to the motor and from the motor to the frame. Battery is mounted in trunk and grounded to frame.

Well after removing the ground from the frame to in stall the new electric fuel pump, I'm not getting any spark at the plugs when trying to start. The motor cranks and I seam to have power everywhere, I just can't figure it out I did test the system with a spare distributor plug into the FBO...

I bypassed the on/off switch and it started. :cheers:

Cleaned up and remounted the ground to the frame. Gained 1 volt at starter when cranking, time to work on the positive cable now.

yes, thanks for the help.

Yes, I have a ebay mini starter From NEG battery post to "stab" into the trunk metal=.40 From engine block to "stab" into say, the frame rail up front=.09

Found some of loss, and double check what I did yesterday because I forgot about the on/off switch. Meter reading as follows; Battery + post to starter bolt=1.2 Battery + post to wire post clamp=.000 Battery + post to top post/clamp of on/off switch=.09 Battery + post to bottom post...

The battery is 12.28V and 10.5 with a load on. Since I am running long lead off my meter I checked the resistance through the leads to one another. Meter read 0.6 so do I use 0.6 as my base line when doing the test? If so, then I get this; Hot Wire First clamp to starter large stud...

Very interesting results. With the meter clamped to the large bolt on the starter, the same one that holds the + cable from battery, with the grounded going to the motor. 12.2 volt initially and 8.37 volts when cranking. So from there I went from the motor being the ground to a place on the...

Ok thanks, I'll work on it tonight and post results.

Should I check the coil + now while turning key to start, with the square solenoid terminal disconnected. Doesn't this keep voltage normal to everything, while eliminating the starter? What to do next?

Not sure what it proves, other than I have 12volt from the ignition switch. yes, wire is off square terminal on relay. I though I was eliminating the starter while give everything else the same voltage when key is turned to start. Battery in trunk with one hot wire up to starter. Battery is...

I removed the brown starter wire from the starter relay, and check voltage at the relay when key is turned. I have 12.02 volts.

I'll check the gap, but I was able to run a 16g wire from the battery ground wire in trunk to engine checking ground, 00.6 impedance. I thought anything less than 1.2 was good.

This is what I got. 12.25volts at battery, 10.57 while cranking. 12.20volts at coil, 8.37 while cranking. 12.02volts at starter relay, 8.37 while cranking. Checked impedance of battery ground wire to frame, .000 Checked impedance of engine to k frame, .002 checked k frame to frame, .000

I have the FBO ecu ignition system, so I running a jumper across the ballast resistor. I will check it tonight.

I have alligator clip on coil and ground with voltmeter setting up right where I can see it through the windshield while turning the key. Battery is in the trunk, so might be able to get someone to help me tomorrow.