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Maybe your confused, line locks are on the front brakes

My disc brakes are set up this way. Front disc right off the master cylinder and a linelock with a proportional valve on the rear line. Works very good.

Easy to install. Just need to run brake line from the master cylinder to the line lock and from the line lock to a "T" to go to each front brake. They have kits for this or make your own brake lines.

I use the Wilwood set up. Works really good for the street and the track. The only thing you have to watch for with any rear disc set up is what wheels will clear the calibers.

I also use the Hurst line lock. Works good. I had one from Summit and it quit working the first year it was in.

not saying your wrong,but my calibers are up front, not toward the rear.

I know this is not factory, may help you. I use the Mopar Aluminum master cylinder with no problems, 73 disc brake set up, no proportional valve for the front, just an adjustable on the rear. also used Dot 5 fluid.

I run the Wilwood 140-7144 with the solid rotors. They work great for the track and on the street. And they do not have dust covers.

I run the Wilwood race disc on the front of my 65 Dart. They are the solid rotor. When I decided not to dragrace the car anymore and make more streetable. Wilwood told me I can run these on the street since the car is not that heavy.

You have to do it like rjsjea said. if you do not have the right flare tool or have the tubing out to far on the flaring tool it will split.

You can put a "T" in the line right after it comes out of the master cylinder for the front brakes, then when you run the brake lines from the master cylinder for the rear, add an adjustable proportional valve in the rear brake line. I use this set up with four wheel disc brakes and it work great.

You still run brake lines separate from the master cylinder to the front and separate to the back. You only need the adjustable proportional valve to the rear brakes.

You can remove it. Put in one of the mopar manual aluminum master cylinders, They are smaller and lighter. I would run new brake lines with only a adjustable proportional valve on the rear. No adjustable valve on the front. I have done this a few times and the car will stop. Do not let someone...

Your are right, you need to have the front aligned. With the late model set up, your front tires will be out a little more. This is a great swap.

I agree, I do not use a distribution block, Just have the single adjustable proportioning valve on the rear disc brakes. Do not have any problems stopping on the street or at the track.

If the 7 1/4 do not work , I have a set of 10" or 11".

I would try NAPA for the rear brake parts. They are a pretty good supplier and the price is not bad. I would also replace the front calipers, brakes and rotors. Then bleed the brakes until you get new fluid coming out. This way you know everything is new at the brakes. Any other issues that come...

I just did a 71 Scamp. You will have to make sure you have the drop center link if you plan on putting a V-8 in it.

I used this set up. I ended up going with Jeggs wheels, all the other wheels did not have to much clearance. You have to remember that aluminum wheels are not the same size inside as a steel wheel. I also had to use a spacer to clear the outside of the calibers from the inside of the wheels...