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Yes, you will have to do your own cutting and sanding to make them fit nice.

I use a AAR on my Scamp. Did not fit to bad, the only thing wrong was it had a low spot on each side near the outer edge on top of the hood. The low spots were about 5"x4". They needed a thin coat of filler to make it right.

I found one cheap, then had to do alot of modifying to it. Had to make it lower, modify the hole for the carb, make a section for the air filter to sit. Works great for the track with the hood scoop I have.

Here mine, modified with no bars.

Nothing like a Scamp!!

I use a mig from Lincoln electric. Not the most expensive welder out there. You have to watch some of the cheaper ones. They are good , but the transformers inside can take the heat if welding a long time. Just my two cents on welders.

Go to autobody specialties, they do carry the floors for each side and they do have a the piece for a four speed. You can get a 1 piece floor, not sure if they carry just the front one piece.

The only option would be to paint them or buy that chrome paint. You will pay almost the same price to have them rechromed, as buying them from someone who already has them done.

Now I did say I got bumpers from AAR, I got a hood from them and it was not the best. Had 2 low spots toward the cowl side, One on each side of the hood in the same place, plus had some trimming to do. Just order another hood for a B-body. Was suppose to get it before Carlisle Nationals, never...

I run AAR fiberglass bumpers on my Scamp. They come with a jell coat that you will have to sand and paint. You will have to cut out the square holes for the bumper brackets. You may have to trim them in some spots. Just fit and trim before you paint.

The last time I talk to AAR, they said you can order one with what scoop you want, as long as they carry that style.

I was not happy with the AAR hood. It was not as flat as they mentioned. On both sides of the hood, about 2" in from the firewall side and 6"x6" wide were low spots. When block sanding, we almost went threw the gel coat and it still had a low spot.

Varlo, Thank you!

Here is mine. hard to keep clean when you drive it and race it.

Like someone said, depends on what look you want and how the car is set up. Even if it stock or modified. Its all up to what you want.

Have any pictures?

Nice work! make sure you check around both sides of the torsion bars were they go threw the cross member. Thats a spot they like to rust. Good Job.

I agree here, Take and make a pattern out of paper or card board. Then cut a piece of steel to fit snug around the torsion bar area. You could do the front and back side to keep the area stronger. I would use 1/16 steel if it was me.

Thanks Robert, are you snowed in yet?

I got the spoiler a few years back at a swap meet.

For the time I have into the fenders, the weight saved is not that great. I got my Scamp to 3036 lbs. But thats what I wanted to do. Every little bit of weight I can cut I did.

I have fiberglass fenders, hood and bumpers on my Scamp. So far on the street and down the track they are looking good. The only thing I did not like was all the time I put into the fenders and hood to make them look nice.

Nice Job. Saved a few $$ to. It only takes some time to make pieces like that. Again, Great Job. :toothy10:

By looking at the picture, I can see your door is low compared to the top of the quarter. Try to adjust ther door and that should help some.

That is a very good job and idea. You may want to try a valance from a Dart and fill in the center. just my thoughts.