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It is a crank hub - no balancer. The hub is double keyed and I had a guy broach another keyway in the crank. The advice is to double key. I know others say they did not and have no problems. With a hub you gotta figure out how you're going to mark for timing. An SFI rated balancer is the other...

Hey - no problem. Thank you! I'm glad you found it useful. Looking forward to seeing any pics you post.

Thanks! It's a lot of fun.

With a 3" belt drive I had no room for a fan in the usual location. In fact, I had to delete the power steering because there was no room for the extra v-belt pulley. A 26" radiator would also be better but at the time I didn't want to modify my 22" core support. So, I went with a two row cross...

Thank you. There are some hood pics here: Steel Hood Mods - 1970 Plymouth Big Block Duster Project You can get linkage like that from a number of places. I got mine from here: Good Vibrations Motorsports E55-501 specifically.

The site is outdated now and I've since changed a number of things on the car so I basically shut it down through the home page - but you can access other pages directly: Blower Mockup - 1970 Plymouth Big Block Duster Project Won't work worth a crap on a mobile device. Desktop computer is best.

I’ve not seen the Hampton but have no complaints with the BDS intake. There are no clearance issues with either a stock or taller billet style distributor. It’s got the backfire valve and I drilled/tapped the intake for a fitting to measure vacuum/boost.

Looks familiar :thumbsup: I've gotten bearing plates, covers, and stuff from DPI. Less expensive that others. Really good luck/service with Good Vibrations Racing too.

Guess it all depends on how high everything sits on the manifold. On a BB, where blower intakes are easy to come by, they're rather low profile. On my Duster I didn't have to use a lift-off and it all works fine but you'd definitely have to finish the opening and tie it into the under-hood...

That's awfully purdy. It'd keep you busy with the Flitz...

Wow, that's an expensive collection!

Black wrinkle powder coat for me :D:D:D

Jack, here's a pick of a typical snout from BDS. There's a snap ring that holds the drive shaft in. Remove that and you should see how to drive the seal out. I like to get my parts from goodvibesracing.com. They have decent prices and good, quick service. I cut up a milk jug and make a little...

Thanks - you're right, it does pay to make informed decisions. The bottom line when it comes to plugs is about controlling detonation. IF the extended tip can transfer heat away to the body of the plug fast enough then theoretically it shouldn't be an issue. Non-extended to be safe? Sure. For...

Spark plugs are NGK racing plugs part no. R5670-7 (stock No, 2891) which are two heat ranges cooler than a stock plug.

I generally follow the recommendation by Dyers (cold - 3/4" - 1" deflection). Weiand is similar. Hampton says 1/2". From BDS, Dyers and Weiand below. They do tighten up quite a bit when hot.

Okay, then I'll stand corrected. I understand it has to do with air displacement. Didn't realize the 14mm were that knarly. I would still say the 1/2" is louder than 8mm - which is the comparison I had in mind. Are the 14mm drives commonly used on the street? Doubt it. Then there are those who...

3" is pretty standard. You'll probably be okay with a SB. With my 440 there's no clearance for any fans. Dropped PS to eliminate an accessory pulley too. Keeping any of it would have required moving the radiator into or in front of the core support. Instead I run a SPAL pusher.

1/2" I run 8mm.

What style idler pulley? If it's a swing arm, loosen it and move it back. You might not get it perfectly centered on the pulleys (doesn't have to be) but should be able to get it pretty close. If, on the other hand, the belt is at opposite edges of each pulley then you may need to add or remove...

That conflicts with some of your info and their charts. They do, however, serve only as reference guides. So, if they gave you the thumbs up, go for it. Also doesn't hurt to start conservative and work up after you see how it's going to behave. I did just respond to your PM with things to...

Cruising around you will make virtually no boost. If you have a boost/vacuum gauge hooked up (and you should) you'll see that the engine is drawing a vacuum while idling, cruising, even driving down the highway. Nevertheless you will still feel a very noticeable difference with 'normal driving'...

Looking at the 8-71 chart, and by my estimation based on the info you've supplied so far, if you under drive by 20% you'd be in the 4-6 lbs of boost range. Guessing you have 1/2" pitch pulleys (I'm using 8mm pitch with vastly different tooth count). As an example, if you use your 36 tooth on...

You'll need to consult some charts for reference, either on the BDS or Dyers site. There are many factors you need to compare to arrive at an appropriate drive ratio: Engine displacement, static compression ratio, blower size (6-71, 8-71), dynamic compression ratio at a given boost level, etc...

Racers use aluminum studs to shear off if there's an intake explosion. I used steel ones. You could also bolt it to the manifold but studs work and look nicer. The torque spec for blower to intake is very low and specific. Will cause problems if over-tightened. Blower intake bolts to the heads...

He must have an old vintage intake. Some were fabbed from aluminum 4 barrel intakes with an adapter plate welded on. Not uncommon back in the day. If you buy a new blower intake for a 440 these days it's all one piece that seals the top of the motor. No part of the old metal gasket is used...

Just as an example, something like this would work fine as a stock replacement for a 906. There is no heat crossover (which you don't want/need anyway): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-301/overview/make/chrysler

No, I don't believe so. You might see if Dyers includes the gaskets with their intake. If not, they may have a recommendation.

No, just paper gaskets on the ports. Everything about the bathtub gasket goes bye-bye.