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Ahhh I couldn't remember if you had told me for sure but now I remember! Because then I looked up the Vega wagon haha. Its all coming back now!

Ohhhh thats an excelent idea! That will be super cool to get her in there! What kind of car are you thinking for a drag week car?

Damn! You weren't kidding, you have been busy with this thing! I know you've said you have a few of these cars, but are any of them 3 pedal cars? I still think this one should be a drag and drive car!! And of course, when you're tired of the ol 318 I think it should get an LS with a turbo...

I sure havent! But I'm going to start with a clutch thats at least rated for the HP. When I pulled the clutch out there were hot spots everywhere.

Yeah, I figured they would so I was going to shim them with something to get it close. If its off by a few thousands I'm sure it'll be fine. At the end of the day, its the bearings that take any forces of misalignment and are cheap and easy to replace. But I'm still going to get it as close as...

I've never heard of the Soft Lock? The 800hp twin disc performed incredibly well on the road. Felt like a stock clutch. They told me the 1200 should be a similar feel? I'll look into the Soft Lock

Did you buy the actual alignment inserts and rod? Or did you just put the shafts and bearings in the ends and use garage tools to get it close and weld it up? I was thinking I'll assemble it all and cut 4 windows in a piston ring compressor and use that to wrap around the housing and the new...

Yeah that is quite a bit more weight and WAY bigger tire putting quite a bit more stress on all of the drivetrain. Again this is a street car 90% of time with a couple trips a year to the strip. So thats a totally different kind of abuse. I think the 60 should hold. Hopefully haha

Yeah I do, I'll be adding the dana 60 upgrades to it as well to follow up with the rear end blowing up.

:rofl: You know it. Idk if I'll break the 1000whp mark but if I can get into the 850whp range like we think its going to with the new injectors and pumps thats knocking on 1000hp!

You aren't shitting, I just had to ship back the 800hp McLeod clutch since it was already slipping and upgrade it to the RXT1200 to be rated for 1200hp. After this and the 60 rear I know the T56 is gonna die and I'll have to put a Magnum in it, but hopefully this lasts me a year or two.

So I have the 60, but all I'm using is the housing. I'm upgrading to a 35 spline suregrip posi along with the new 35 spine shafts/green bearings from Dr. Diff. So it certainly wont be stock. I'll be $1600 in it with all the parts. Even less if the 60 I have is 4.10. I gotta crack it open...

This needs a "love" response instead of "like" or "thanks" haha Thats why the 9" wasnt even in the question because the weights similar to a 60 and I'll have twice the money in it for the strength. I already own the 60. Its sitting in the garage right now waiting to be cut apart.

It seems this is going to be the plan. I already have the 8.75 sold if I dont use it to a guy with a hemi swapped scamp local to me. It'll work great for him.

This post bellow is what I was going off for an 8.75 which is right around the same weight as the 9 and 60. It seems that they are all about the same ballpark. Especially since the flange ends are the same mopar bolt pattern/size and using all the mopar brakes. The perch for the 60 is the same...

Cass was actually the one who recommended me build a 9 or 60 to begin with when I told him my HP rating after breaking the current 3rd. He's who I'm buying all the 60 parts from. I was just curious if anyone is getting away with the bigger power and the 8.75 simply because its the easy way out...

400hp and 750hp are quiiittteee a bit different, even with a bit more weight.

I haven't weighed the car yet. The aftermarket K and rack and pinion is definitely lighter than the factory one and steering box. The links are lighter than the leaf springs and the aluminum heads and plastic intake are certainly lighter than the stock cast ones. So realistically its probably...

I doubt the 400lbs would really add that much longevity.

:rofl: Same thing just happened to me when I looked it up.

I thought so too, but after a little looking it seems the semi float 60 is lighter than a 9" by 35lbs!

My only gripe with the 9" is the 3rd member alone costs more than I can build the whole 60 for basically. And the 60 is definitely strong.

Just talked to Bill. The reason for the new bar is because the bar is so close to the axle front to back that the angle is really steep and he said there may be interference from the diff itself and the links. Which makes sense because the upper links are very short. Welding that tube in wont be...

I agree. Leaving the mounts on the car where they are will only make my triangulation better

You mean like this? haha

No they're welded to the tubes. So I'll need new mounts on the 60. Thats for sure, but Bill said the Chassis side mounts need to be brought out as well instead of just better triangulation. I know in our rock crawlers the more triangulation the better.

It definitely is large. But I'm not going to run the car any lower than in the picture I put in the first post. I hope it clears my gas tank, but I've seen posts of ppl putting 60s in dusters, so I'm assuming it will.

When I talked to Bill Reilly about doing the 60 swap since its his kit he said the upper mounts on the bar I welded to the car have to be moved further out because of the width of the center section. Idk why I can just use more triangulation. I'm going to call him and ask him that.

Its a T56 trans, but saving the trans from the shock load of blowing up should help as well haha

Yeaahh I have a 9" housing kicking around too, but I figured if I have to do the work to narrow stuff anyways I might as well do the 60 with 35 splines and never worry again. Especially since I can get the housing ends to weld on the 60 and retain my disc brakes with the ebrake cables etc.