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10 ft/lbs or 125 in/lbs with todays grease.

Bigger brakes are all about heat dissipation predominantly. If you cant increase diameter because of wheel size then increase thickness, look at the short track package of a Nascar they are THICK like 1.5" or bigger.

Manual brakes give the driver more control of the pressure. Power are just TOO easy to lock up.

Yeah sorta, these twin bleeder calipers can suck to bleed trust me.

Crack the crossover lines on the bottom of the calipers like a bleeder a couple times.

Those look a lot like mine! Please let me know how yours work and what proportioning you use and master. I know I need an adjustable prop valve just barely.

Ive heard that if you crack the transfer line that connects the 2 caliper halves, it helps in some cases.

Firm Feel sells Carbon Metallic for stock apps.

American Racing SHelby Redline 18x9 6.5 bs

Just wanted to update this thread with a pic of Dr. Diffs 14" kit. I didnt realize how cone shaped my inner wheels were until after I got it so these are actually 13.93" brakes now :oops: But they should still work superbly regardless.

I used my original fittings in my aluminum master from Dr. Diff and my original drum brake,9" front drum, prop valve has worked flawlessly so far with the swap to 73+ caliper and 11.75 discs.

If you want to get it going ill have my 11.75" setup available complete minus spindles. Were you gonna use dropped spindles anyway?

I also use the 15/16 from Dr.D and it works great.

The difference in thickness between the rotors and the drums is gonna determine the amount of movement. Its the nature of the beast and unavoidable. It can't be more than 3/16 per side. If things are to tight for that then their to tight. I second the Dr.Diff recommendation!

I got my 15/16" with the adapter from Dr.Diff. Works awesome and I love the how little I have to push to stop on a dime.

Ive been wanting to know this too. I think if you can determine what length you front most cable is would determine it though. I think both styles will work on a given car if you start from scratch. Maybe not.....

Do both of these act like 1/4" spacers on each side? Like putting a rotor over the top of your existing hub?

The way the bleeders are in the pic isn't good from where I'm sittin.

I know, I just couldnt resist. I am not an anti FMJ spindle guy at all. I guess if some one wants to run at stock front ride height in an A-body the FMJs would be better. But once lowered there isnt much difference. I brought up the drop spindle thing just for you 72blu lol!

Where my car is at ride height wise, from there to compress it is right where I start into some good camber gain. My upper control arm at my ride height is level to slightly upward. I have 73+ A body spindles. Thats another problem with the dropped spindles, I bet you are on the bumps before you...

Btw I just checked with Cass today and his SRT rotored 14.25" setup will clear my wheels....which is bitchen,now I need a money tree.

Another thing that makes the bigger brakes an advantage is with the larger rotors and moving the calipers further away from the hub center line is the rotor is moving slower for a given speed. There simply is more leverage and the same caliper gains quite a bit of mechanical advantage going from...

That would be an awesome upgrade! Definitely worth it if you have a 4 speed and want to have some fun! If it is an A body rear im 99% positive it is a direct bolt in but im not positive if the spring perches are the same width. If you have a 7 1/4 now you will need bigger ubolts and new spring...

Because big bolt A body 8 3/4 are super rare. The later year A bodies had big bolt axles but in an 8 1/4. If you have access to a complete big bolt A body 8 3/4 why would you even start the thread?lol EDIT: What rear axle do you currently have? That is I guess where to start....

You can get some redrilled axles from Dr.Diff and others. They are out there you just have to do some digging. For rear brakes just dig through some junkyards and find an 8 3/4 equipped anything other than an A-body. My rear brakes and backing plates came from a 68 D100 pickup.....

I also run the larger 11x2.5" rear drums now, helps fill up my 17" rims better and stops the car very well with the 11.75" out front. But that's on big old Challenger, I think on an A-body the 11" rear drums would be overkill. But a finned set of the 10" drums would look pretty killer... I run...

Hey tooslow I want to see some pics of that AMG setup.

Dont doubt what your saying a bit. One thing though, the cars these things are going on,3200lb A bodies, and the calipers they are equipped with,REALISTICALLY, are not capable of generating the heat or clamping force that would cause the cracking in the first place. Yeah I bet you are hearing...

Id like to see a pic of his 14" kit as well.

My 11" rear drums cost free fifty free and came off a 68 Dodge pickup. I dont car how my drums look through my 18" wheels either.