Search results for query: *

I think you're right. At least he's giving me my money back, and I found what I think is the right one on ebay.

That's what I thought. He must have given me a B body one by accident then. The hunt goes on for a local one.

Does anyone happen to have a 73+ centerlink laying around that could snag a few measurments for me? I bought one and the guy says it's from a 1973, but when I went to install it, it's about 2" longer than my old one. The outer tie rod holes are 24.5" apart, whereas my1972 one is 22 about an...

I could probably trim my bolts a little too, there is a lot of thread sticking out. Easy modification to do, trimming the spacers, just surprised I had to do it.

I had to cut the spacer that came with mine into very short pieces to get the proper angle on the sway bar. 73+ style, but I have QA1 control arms, very similar mounting location, but it is a little different.

They are A body measurements. The passenger side says it's a 456 spring, which is a B body SS spring, but the driver side says nothing other than those numbers.

I pulled my rear suspension out yesterday to replace the leaf spring bushings. The front bushing is 1.5" and the rear is 1". I was wondering if someone could help ID what they are out of. They came in my Duster, I was told they are 65 B Body SS springs, but I can't find anything related to...

I'm another one with their 20:1, no complaints. I have a bug block and a little wider 225, but stickier tire and lots of castor, it's not bad at all while moving. When stationary it's pretty hard to turn, but it's the same as my old 24:1 box. No complaints, would buy it again.

The cover is the hardest part, I grabbed one of these as well. Definitely worth it.

QA1 also has a set, Bergman Autocraft has a few options that he sells too. Just a few more options.

I had a woodgrain version of this one, ut on the hot humid days it would be too slippery with manual steering and sweaty hands. This one doesn't look as good, but has more grip, and is 1" larger to help with low speed turning.

I figured it would only pull major current against lock or when fighting the wheel against something. 60 is pretty substantial, I would have guessed it would be a 30 or 40 amp fuse on it. I would definitely need to upgrade as my stock alt is running my EFI and electric fuel pump, I don't...

You mention a 60amp power feed, did you upgrade your alternator and the wiring as well? I'm still running like a 40 amp alternator, I would have some extra work to do.

That's a 315/35r17 out back, it sits lower than stock. I believe it's just under 26" from ground to fender lip. I'm thinking the current spring packs have either had a leaf removed or some mixed and matched to build the pack. They were in the car when I got it. The main leaf is stamped...

I'll take another look at everything, make sure the strut rods aren't binding, and loosen and retorque all of the mounting bolts while it's on the ground to make sure nothing is bound up there either. I'd like to get a new set of leafs, but I don't want to change my ride height at all...

I'll unhook the shock and cycle the suspension to make sure there is no binding, but I'm pretty sure there wasn't when I installed it. I found a pic on my phone that shows bumpstop clearance at static ride height, is there a rubber bumpstop I could install instead? Everything was torqued...

It sure feels like it's the front that is stiff when going over bumps, but maybe it is the rear. I was going to rebuild my leafs this winter, but I have been debating on getting a set of Hotchkis leafs for it. Maybe it's worth replacing them to see what it improves, then look at shocks if...

72 Duster, steel headed 440, PST 1.03 bars, QA1 uppers, lowers and strut rods, Hellwig sway bar, B Body SS springs and mini tubbed. I currently have RCD Bilsteins front and rear, but they seem pretty stiff. Even when I sit on the front of the car, it barely moves. Car sits pretty low, so I...

They are different because the mounts for coil overs are strong enough to handle the weight of the vehicle. The shock mount is not designed to carry the weight of the vehicle, it is meant to hold a shock in place to dampen the suspension.

Well, the new box has been in for a while, I forgot to update the thread, it seems to be good. I can feel the front end moving with very minimal steering input, the slop is gone. I haven't gotten under to see if there is any flex with this box, but with how it drives, I see no reason to...

That's what I run, it rides amazing, minimal roll in corners. I also have a Hellwig sway bar up front too. Edit: Mines is very nose heavy with the big block too.

And Pin 19-15-23 keeps the shoes inside of the coupler body.

I agree, you handled it well, I received a new box with no questions asked, my vehicle is still in pieces so I haven't been able to test the new one out. However, I had originally dealt with James, I sent him a video of the movement in the box and was told to just discard the defective box, it...

I spun the input on mine, it is much harder to spin near the center and gets easier the closer I get to the lock, which i thought was strange. I had my column out at the time so I slid the steering coupler on to make sure it fit, since the last one was a nightmare to install. It was pretty...

I pulled my new one off the shelf, it was turned all the way to the right as well.

No I did not. My son was pretty sick last weekend, so that took priority. I'm gonna try this weekend, but considering it was 17 degrees this morning, I have a while to get it back together! I haven't checked the new one to see if it was centered or not.

My first one was sent almost years ago and the replacement was sent at the end of last cruising season. I plan to install it tomorrow actually, I had to remove everything steering related to tip my engine down enough to swap my trans, now that the teans is in, the steering will be going back...

Let's hope the replacements they sent us are an improved design and better than the first batch!

That was the entire reason for my upgrade too. I had replaced all of the tie rods and idler/pitman arm the year before and the car still wandered a bunch due to a dead spot even after tightening up the stock box. Was really expecting to eliminate that issue with the new one, but I was wrong.

This will spund silly, but aside from the dead spot in the center, I am happy with the 20:1 ratio box from a handling/steering effort point of view. Just really hoping this replacement box gets rid of the dead spot issue, but reading your post doesn't give me hope.