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I've got one of those for quart sized bottles and gallon sized bottles. They can be a life saver! I like the treaded piece to screw into the fill plug hole.

.145 is within spec, isn't it, wasn't it .120-.160? I wanna say mine was about the same as yours. You need to leave a gap for when the clutch disc wears and the pressure plate fingers stick out more, but too big of a gap I think results in the clutch pedal needing to be pushed down further...

Mine was sloppy too, I think I had it lifted most of the way up when I torqued everything down. Glad to hear it was nothing major. Need to find an old 833 input shaft to keep around for next time!

Check the runout between crank centerline and the hole in bellhousing. Maybe you need some offset bushings to move it slightly.

I can't remember, maybe someone else will chime in. Or measure the ones you have. 7/16 sounds right, but I'm not 100% positive.

The second pic with the rusty ones look correct. Make sure you have them orientated properly.

Grab some longer trans to bellhousing bolts and cut the heads off. Then screw them in and use as alignment dowels.

As far as your pedal height question, I bought an adjustable brake pedal push rod and put them at the height I wanted as the clutch pedal height was also adjustable with the linkage I used.

Yeah, its the Eastside kit. I used the washers it came with, plus a thick one from McMaster since nothing it came with could be configured properly. The stud in the trans actually broke when I torqued it to 30 ftlbs, snapped right in half. So I used a grade 8 bolt that was longer to still...

I run a different throw out bearing than you, but I had the same issue. I ended up getting some spacers from McMaster that got me the gap I needed. I also had to lengthen the anti rotation bolt that was on it.

I had to do mine after.

I have a 440, 833 8.75 combo and my driveshaft is 49.5" u joint center to ujoint center. I wouldn't go off of someone else's measurements though. I would measure your application to get the exact length you need.

How about some bigger shoes, then there are no mods to the car?

Based on tons of recommendations, this is also what I run. I had to have it special ordered, nobody around me stocked it. It's only been a few hundred miles, but it seems to work fine so far, shifts nice and easy.

I needed a new drivehsaft when I went from a 727 to an 833. There's a few inch difference

That's pretty normal, I thought all A/B/E body A833's were 30 spline output?

I figured out what size shim pack I was going to need to get the correct measurements, then just ordered a spacer of that size from McMaster, works perfectly.

I had to make my own longer stud as well. The one that came with my kit was also too short.

I'm using the kit that Passon sells, I believe it's the Eastside Motorsports Kit. I had to fab up a custom mount for the master cylinder due to interference with my exhaust. The throwout bearing on the trans fit, but I needed to buy additional spacers. The kit didn't come with enough, and...

That's where mine is leaking from too.

I bought all my stuff from Brewers. I went with McLeod for the flywheel and clutch, and I have no complaints. I did convert to a hydraulic throwout bearing, so the pedal effort is very light. There is no clutch chatter, or anything like that, and when I dump the clutch, it grabs and goes.

It looks like an A body pedal set. $250 is the going rate for a clean set, that one looks a little crusty, not an issue, but would need some cleaning up. I went hydraulic on mine when I did the conversion a few months ago. The kit needed some tweaking to work correctly, but everything...

Mine did the same thing on the bench, when I bolted it to the trans to test it, it worked fine. Reverse takes a pretty good pull on mine to get into, the shifter is still stiff from the rebuild.

It was in stock again this morning for $65 still while I was browsing for other stuff. I picked up a 440 water pump for $58 and some MLS head gaskets for $15 each.

Hopefully they got your order placed before everyone else got theirs in! Fingers crossed for ya.

I've been lucky, everything I've ever bought from Holley has always shown up 2 days later.

Or just get this from Brewer and rebuild your existing shifter into one that uses a bolt on handle. If you don't need to rebuild the shifter, you can get just the piece the handle bolts to for $20.

Mine had a bushing in it as well. But the OD of the bushing was smaller. There used to be an undersized crank bushing to be used with automatic cranks that were drilled, but not honed to final size. I couldn't find one for sale anywhere, so I ended up using a pilot bearing that fit...

I noticed some of the prices too, I'd say it's maybe a $229 part. The fab work and material is cheap, but I know there is development dollar to recoupe. It came with a Hurst sticker too, so that's a plus!

I can't believe people were paying $700 for this!!