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Quick Performance 9" or start with a housing/axle package from Speedway Motors. They have tons of widths for for around $799

This is exactly why no one wants to work on old stuff for money. Unless you figure you're time at $25/hr they think they're getting screwed but the same rear end work on a newer Ram would be couple grand with basically same **** (Bearings, Ring & Pinion, Axles, Seals, Etc)

Unless it's all a screaming deal, I'd be looking at the TKX 5 speed. Smaller case and standard muncie bolt pattern I believe. Should be a much easier install if you're not dead set on that sixth gear.

The hardest part of the rebuild is usually the needle bearings. I learned that you just use a liberal amount of automatic assembly grease to push/hold them in place. Works great. Only thing you really can't do at home is "bush" the case for the countershaft. If it's not "wallowed" out I'd run...

Man that '64 is sweet

If it turns fairly easy and looks clean inside with no cracks or damage on the case then it's probably all you can do when you go look at it. Unfortunately, there's a chance it grinds, falls out of gear, whines, etc once you get it running. After building a nice 4 speed last winter, I probably...

One of the fingers hanging up on the pressure plate maybe?

WIT Transmission has a ton of good stuff as well. Once you start reading up on the trans and doing some research, you'll likely find that a "complete kit" is really not for you. You'll want a Super Sprag, billet servo possibly, maybe a different band and clutch package, etc.

That would definitely be a good idea.

Ah, too many years of four speeds spinning in the crank. I use the later bearing that sits in the register and put a little loctite around to make sure it dont ever spin. Rather the bearing make noise first.

I would probably locktite it to the crank so no chance of grabbing the snout and spinning in the register if it were mine.

This is what I'd buy

Oregon is a great source for parts. Gotten a bunch of AT stuff from them in the past.

I'd replace the sprag springs and rollers typically but don't remove the unit itself if it looks like it has a good bite on the case. Those parts are $10-$15 around here.

Most parts stores carry them. Really common item. Just make sure you grab the correct one for the size and thread of the stock bolt. It comes with the correct drill bit.

Your good to go then. No worries. Never done that to any of my rides over the years and they come apart just fine.

If it's all together I'd just run it. If it starts to leak from the front pump seal then pull it down and replace seal. There's a good chance you'll be fine as there was likely some trans fluid on the hub when you installed it. You did fill the converter correct?

How much does a factory hi-stall cost? Probably can get a new b&m/tci for not much more or even a good used unit on here.

I went with 5 rear disks & 12 springs in my front clutch with a solid snap ring. Also 4.2 lever, reverse manual valve body, etc.

I don't think you need to remove the trans to re-seat the converter. Just unbolt the converter and loosen the bellhousing while on a jack. Get it back a little and spin the converter till it seats with a ""thunk". The tighten everything back up and see what happens.

Based on my past experience, the trans didn't release into 2nd gear. Had this happen a couple times on a trans I had a supposed local "pro" shop do. Both times the trans had to be torn down and gone thru. I would recommend you do the same. As mentioned above, when a 727 grenades it ain't pretty.

I believe that pin is held in with the tailshaft. If someone ground the little area off the housing then the pin would fall out. You may have to source another tail housing or it would keep popping out.

One note you may be aware of. Just because the snap rings fits doesn't guarantee enough clearance. Best to check with feeler gauge once assembled dry.

Good choice. 727 is heavier & slower.

Spend the couple hours locating another 904. Will hold up plenty and you won't have to modify anything. They can be built to handle most smallblocks these days.

Dealer can order the individual seals as well. No shipping costs that way. Print a schematic & circle the part you need. I've gotten several trans seals & thust washers that way.

Always good to find the problem. Fustrating but rewarding at the same time. Crap like that has kept me up many a nite.

B&M Z-Gate is a lower cost shifter with no ratchet b.s. My bud had one for years till he went reverse pattern.

Someone posted a quick video of them air checking an assembly on the bench. Also explained that the 727 front drum is a little lazy when checking with added springs. That's the one I thought was no good.

I also learned it's best to just give a quick "blip" with the compressed air. If left on longer it will bleed out & I've thought there was a problem when there wasn't. I changed a set of piston seals about 4 times before someone cleared that up for me.