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Mine came out to 8.125" for lowdeck with Edelbrock RPM heads, solid lifters & HS rockers. That measurement is to bottom of cup.

Perfect. Thanks.

I'm measuring for pushrods on my 470 build with solid lifter cam. I've taken the measurement with checking pushrod at approx zero lash with two threads showing on the Harland Sharp rockers. Should I reduce the pushrod size to account for lash. I think the card is around .018" hot. How does that...

Excellent. That's definitely reassuring. I did some reading and there's some that have recommended installing a restrictor to limit oil to heads a bit to keep it at the mains. Not planning to do anything like that but seems a bit of a reduction to the heads may be ok.

Awesome. Thank you guys. Surprised they don't oversize the holes to give us a little play.

Edelbrock rpm heads. The bearing has a couple marks from test fitting but don’t believe there are any gouges.

Should I be concerned with the 4th cam bearing that feeds the heads? Neither side is great. Probably 2/3 open at most. It’s gonna be a 400/470 strip mule approx .625 lift.

Thanks for the post RAMM. Trying to get my 470 built myself if I can ever get the block finished at the machine shop. They're killing me.

Very nice. Good tip. Appreciate it as I'll be installing my first "girdle" this winter.

Just get a 440 source kit and be done. You can offset grind a stock 440 crank but as you said, no one wants to screw around with that stuff anymore. Better to get a kit, have the shop mic it all up and test fit in block so you don't have any issues. Then assemble yourself.

They definitely seem to be good "kits" for a bracket build. Hoping mine turns out well. The other positive with the kits is availability. It's tough to build a motor right now so just having them in stock is a huge plus. Definitely give them credit for that.

They balance by "average" weights of parts. Good for a 5,500rpm street build. In a typical "race" balance all pistons/rods are corrected to match the lightest then the crank is balanced to that number. My "kit" balanced crank was 42grams off on front & 12grams off on rear when my shop corrected...

I would ask for it "unbalanced" and have that done by your shop.

Gonna say part mismatch with respect to balancing and doubt a $400 ATI damper is gonna solve it unless you have the wrong balancer for your application.

Didn't see anything on basic cam / valvespring info on this beast.

I'm also in the "Run it" camp.

Honestly, not sure it really felt that much meaner. Damn thing ran pretty good previously. The old 509 Purpleshaft was a pretty good cam apparently.

By the way, I had a 360 with TRW forged flats (no reliefs - old school) that ran like a beast. We tore it down and were just going to "re-ring". By the time I got thru the math, it was less than 8:1. Not one of us believed it based on how well the car ran around town with a big cam. Ended up...

Factory compression ratios were bs for the most part. Ignore that in my opinion as alot of motors had the pistons much further down in the hole than the "blueprint" number. If your numbers are correct, that calc will be close. The other calcs simply take more data to "tighten" up the calc. I...

Just stick with the Summit Calc and you'll be close. I use the KB one usually myself as that will do "dynamic". The more info the calc requires, the more accurate it'll be but there's more places to enter bad info.

Summit Calc Is much Simpler. Compression Calculator

Not alot of lift for so many cubes. I'm not cam guru thou, just first impression.

How about an Indy intake?

If the heads were the same but smaller chambers, Edelbrock would not have reduced their cost so all that makes no sense. Very easy to have valves stocked for each head. No different than the 1000 different valves they probably have to stock for all their other production.

I was able to finally get the block apart and to the machine shop. Fingers crossed. Turned out that the pins were all froze. Real pain in the arse. I'd definitely like to setup a "dunk tank" in a steel drum next time and just let it soak. Made a total mess of my shop floor, tools, etc with...

From Hughes Website: 1. The E-Street head uses a less expensive (a little heavier) valve than the RPM head. 2. The E-Street head has powder metal valve seats whereas the RPM heads use ductile iron seats, which in our opinion is a better seat material - it is harder and lasts longer but is harder...

Don’t buy a “kit” in your case. Get a good Molnar crank and build from there. Kits are great, as is, for a street cars all day long but have some limitations including piston size availability. They also come with a “street” bearing, not really the best for racing. Other issue is the “balance”...

Just ordered some flat style air hammer bits. Will let it soak for a couple days longer and then hit it with the air hammer once they come in. Should make quick work of it then.

I'll have to try this. Thanks. Everything was pretty crusty when I took it apart. Still got 2-3 lifters that haven't freed up yet. I unbolted one of the rods and can barely move the piston with a block of wood and a 2lb sledge. It's definitely the rings at this point. I'll keep soaking it.