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Avoid A1 Cardone, if possible... Have gotten worse ,with time.

I did parts, till 2013 . A1 Cardone wasn't the best ,on packaging.

Did you look at the combination valve ?I What master cylinder application ,did you use ?... And this goes with the second sentence? Do the rear wheel cylinders ,match what the master cylinder primary bore ,is capable of ? Did you replace the rear wheel cylinders ,or bolt it in ,as is....? I am...

What car, are working on...? Let's start, with the parts, you want to swap.....

Why not find the casting number,on the master cylinder..and back track it ,from there? A 1 Cardone's website,has a search by casting number feature. Or better yet....: Take that number to a good parts guy..., let him do the research... O Reillys,Napa ,Carquest, ...my recommendations...

I run Dot 3,here's an excellent quote... HOME IN PRINT TECH EXTRAS CONTACT Tech Question Gary Boak, Chilliwack, BC, Canada, 1969 Dart Swinger 340 I notice in the April 04 issue you say that DOT 5 brake fluid can be used without flushing the system. Everything I have heard and read states that...

Might check out Inline tube.....

At least ,you noticed...

Thanks,for the tip... Safety first,and I rarely say that....

Post pictures,of the situation..,every car is different, when you make these moves.,(It's not Mopar here,it-s hot rodding.. There's no magical ,bolt on...,

Yeah Rob,I know..(sigh)... Still like Bendix products, just no one not paying attention to 40 year old produc numbers anymore( other than specialist houses).

Actually, Bendix has dropped a lot of their older part numbers.. I remember those parts,outdated normally in '09.....

Heyyyyy ...,someone remembers a basic rack brake inspection.This type of knowledge, needs to be taught to more D.I.Y.'ers....

If you can: pull a front & rear wheel each, take pictures of each, & post them here...We really don't know what's underneath those wheels. FWIW: Most Detroit iron, usually has a wider track up front,than the rear( helps safe tracking in turns ,stock...) I wouldn't recommend any upgrades...

Bumpola, Cosgig. Good info here.

This has been happening in the parts industry, for years..( The buyout of parts from chain/independent store buyouts/& the logistics of reboxing different brands.) I was taught as a tech," rebuild the OEM part that came off the car..." FWIW,your statement is honest,at the day is long.( think...

Centric are nice pieces,sold them for two years...

The extra benefit: Watch Karl's actions,& learn... That's a really cool offer,O.P....

Nice.. Ben Drinkin .. Nice find.. ..

Casting numbers from the calipers, rotors,and the rest of what you have ,can help as well.

On the Western Coastline, Fast Undercar auto parts chain . Their primary brake supplier is Centric, might try them as well.

Rusty's posts,both dead on.Small details, make all the difference.

Get casting numbers, off the wheel cylinders. Any decent parts guy, should match that casting number,& backtrack from there.Bringing the actual physical parts in with you to the parts store ,helps eliminate communication errors.

I am impressed, someone mentioned this. So many people, never look at the small details. If this is the case, grab a mig welder & go to work. If no access to a welder/welding skills, find a good buddy.

Rotor casting numbers?....

My kind of post, simple and done...

This is how I do it. Surprised Fred Flintstone ,didn't patent it,lol.

Sold Centric brake parts at a Fast Undercar store. I had good luck ,with selling their product.

At this point,find a local GOOD brake & chassis shop. Tell them the mods you did, have them do a basic brake inspection.Start there.

Sold both,as a parts guy. Have had good luck with both. Good luck on finding made in U.S.A.