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Has the cam been installed correctly/degreed? What's the timing advance set at? Vacuum advance hooked up? Fan rotating the wrong way? Properly burped the system? Is the radiator top still the highest point in the cooling system?

Also, put some more timing in the engine at idle. 15° advance on a performance engine is not enough. You'll need at least something around 24° imo. Pressure in the cooling system is caused by the coolant and the present air expanding due to heat, not by the waterpump 'creating' pressure because...

Do you have enough timing at idle? I would use a 7-blade factory fan. The blades of those are usually made from aluminium.

Rebuilt engines can run hot while they're breaking-in. My rebuilt 360 ran hot too, but has returned to the same level the previous 318 was after a while. It certainly doesn't run way hotter at speed, compared to idle. Are you sure the cam is installed correctly/degreed properly? How much timing...

Good to see the waterpump has regular vanes. I believe Mancini had(s) these usually. 440Source has the scrolltype impeller waterpumps that don't seem to flow as much as the vane-types do.

The waterpump is an aluminium aftermarket piece, not a stocker. Probably has a cast scroll impeller which I've learned don't live up to their hype.

There's the main reason for your hot running engine. It's struggling and 'working' right from the get-go. Tap or wiggle on the secondary throttle shaft. Most likely it's being held open just a tad (or by a screw). With only 7° initial it should also run like a wet newspaper, not helping keeping...

Nice industrial shaped setup if you maybe need to cool a 900hp engine, or cover up other issues with the cooling system. With all the open holes and gaps in the construction I'm fairly sure a factory stock shroud would mostlikely get the same or even better results. Any pics of the 900hp engine? :)

In a pinch you can use a spray of (clear) paint on the gasket and stick it in it's position.

I recently found a topic on an Audi-forum where someone tested a number of brands and PEAK came out WORST. Far worst, as it didn't seem to provide any means of protection for the cooling system at all. The test was with mixed / dissimilar metals in a cooling system, just like most people use...

I would FIRST confirm the aftermarket gauge's temp by pointing a laser temp-gauge at the waterpump, t-stathousing and hoses. I have a SunPro temp gauge in another car that decided to add 20°F to the original temp one day. But the engine is also still running hot because of a partly clogged...

Just stick your nose in the radiator-cap opening and you'll know rightaway if there are exhaust fumes there. You could also buy a CO2 homesafety device for restricted chimneys and such. Put it in a plastic and hold the bag over the radiator opening tightly.

Purely emission. They want/'need' all the fuel to be burned completely in the exhaust so everything needs to be scorching hot. There no need for an older car to have an engine running this hot. It leaves hardly no room for error or something like a coolant leak. The moment the system-pressure...

At least put a spring in the lower hose and hook up a vacuum advance. 12° advance at idle is not what an engine likes.

You can use Citric acid to dissolve a good amount of rust in the cooling system if present.

Agreed, I would worry about fixing the stability of your car / frame rails too if the radiator starts to crack open over time.

Any chance you have installed a Marine or Magnum type waterpump? Magnum engines use a serpentine belt and run the opposite way of a LA waterpump. The waterflow is still the same in the engine, but the (Magnum) impeller might be inefficient with your v-belt rotation/setup and hardly pump any...

The waterpump actually takes the least power to turn. While flinging around the coolant does pose some load on the crank/v-belt at higher speeds, it's not much compared to what the PS-pump or alternator (when charging) do.

Low vacuum would mean a (mild) engine is not running optimal, or sometimes even struggling to stay running. Could be from a lousy mixture, piston ring seal, vacuum leaks, ignition timing or cam timing. Some peeps think 12-15" vacuum is healthy. I think around 20" is healthy for a mild engine...

How much vacuum does the engine make during idling in neutral and in drive? I have a fairly similar 360ci engine, powersteering, Doug's headers, only with a XE256 cam and 11.3:1cr. My car has a fan shroud which really helps. With the 160F thermostat it stays around 150F pretty much all the...

Haven't seen much feedback on how you use or have set up the MSD Atomic timing control, for all we know your engine could be running with 15° advance all the time.

When it comes to digital ignition systems, you only set the distributor once, and never touch it again after that. Timing changes should all be done digitally in the ECU. If you did actually turn the distributor so it idles at 45° degrees now, the ECU still thinks it's at 12 or 15°, and will...

Do you have 'vacuum advance' set up in the unit? If not, you could leave Base Timing at 15° and add, say 8° of vacuum advance. I'm reading and educating myself on a different screen on how to program the Atomic and also noticed one has to setup the distributor and rotor with 15° advance. I...

How does the actual timing curve look like? I would be trying some more idle advance. 15° is nice as a base timing, but you don't want to idle at that number. Close or just over 20° is probably where your engine would be more happy. Maybe try running it without the AC radiator as a test.

I would put in a lathe or column drill and put some grooves on the neck for the rubberhose to grab onto.

I might need one of these too as the fan in my '73 Dart doesn't work anymore at Defrost and Heater. But at $90 I might want to open it up first. But looking at the description it says this item works on '60-'65 Chryslers too, where I just so happen to have a complete '64 and '65 Chrysler...

Having no shroud doesn't mean you should have an overheating engine. It just means your radiator is well up to the task of cooling your engine. It's when things get marginal (scaled up radiator/bad engine tune) that a shroud usually helps the situation in favor of the radiator. A shroud mostly...

You can install the fan with the bolts already in it through the spacer. Accepted 'effective' space between fan and radiator is less an inch for it to be truly functional. But if you're that far of the radiator, a fanshroud will be a better option. Why do different engine mounts change the...

Checking the thermostat is always a good (first) idea to do. But, unlike the rest of the 'info' above here... unless you want to risc blowing headgaskets or waterhoses, burn up the life of your oil quickly, yeah then running with 210F maybe fine... For me it's not. 180-190 is the max I want to...

Usually lye or ovencleaner is the big no-no on aluminium.