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You don't want 'softer' shocks, you want 'better' shocks.

Any sharp edges the bushing is in contact with? That will surely dig into the material easily. Those big washers look completely flat. I would think dished washers like used by the factory will be friendlier on the bushings. But I've also seen these dished washers installed backwards, to limit...

A significant left and right difference in caster will make a car pull to one side (with the least caster I recall).

I daily drive a '73 Dart with Borgeson P/S-box. One thing to consider is the weight(loss) of the Borg-box. It's quite a bit lighter than the bulkcarrier-anchor stock unit. I had to use 2 hands to remove the old worn PS-box, while I could install the Borg-unit with one hand.

I have 1" on Dart but I'm upping to 1.08" bars from Sway-A-Way.

And the descriptions are outdated as much as B&W TV's are...

Originally, still a wimpy one in today's standards. Use at least a 1.03" bar.

I've got one-way adjustables on the rear.

That's not stiff. Seems about 'normal' as the usual soft way American cars are set up from the factory. I also don't see the question in your post yet. Most people only go aftermarket because they simply don't know how well a Mopar suspension (can) works and for some reason think 'aftermarket'...

I always grind/turn down the poly-bushings ( just the 'rear'-ones) to the 'correct' thickness so they won't force the LCA backwards, lessen caster and shorten the life of the LCA-bushing.

Monroe Sensatrac “Loadleveler” shock add about an inch to your rideheight. As for a shock they are nice/average, but nothing special other than that.

Mopar put out a Technical Service Bulletin for the '73 models for a fix if a car suffered from a loss of alignment. The dealer-fix was to weld a gusset on the UCA mounts if cracks were noted. So "in general" it could be assumed that some reinforcements in this area is recommend, especially when...

Look at Sway-a-way for torsion bars. One price for various diameters and they include the boots and clips in the price.

I'm running 1" bars on my daily driven '73 Dart. It has single adjustable Hotchkis shocks on the front and single adj. QA1 shocks on the rear axle. 7-leafs per side (2 LPG tanks in trunk) But, I've just ordered a pair of 1.08" bars from Sway-a-Way to upgrade the springrate. Sway-a-Way has one...

eh... Maybe...

Sounds unlikely. More like 4x4 racing with the 3” rise.

Wow.... forget the adjusters... Put that torsion bar all the way into the socket!

Yes, I was thinking of a car that's reasonably square to begin with.

To square-up the strutrods, I would measure the back or balljoints of both LCA's to a fixed point on the car rearward, or to the rearaxle maybe, and adjust both struts to measure the same (LCA-to-Axle) distance on both sides of the car.

They'll probably offer you a replacement P/S box, and charge it from your card. After you've shipped back your old one they'll refund the money. At least that's how they offered to handle the warranty on my leaky P/S box. Sounded fair to me. I declined and fixed it myself because the hassle of...

A (too) tight idler-arm bushing could result in the same issue you have.

(I'm not sure if it does that) but why do you think this is a bad thing?

Rear bracket is installed wrong and too far forward. Doesn't look like something that comes in a kit either. Is this the result of someone's cobbled-together redneckery?

Propane is the primary fuel source of the car. The tanks combined have a volume of 110 Liters, but due to the tanks 80% safety-fill limit, only about 88 Liter can be carried.

I've had Bilsteins on the rear of my '73 Dart for awhile and upgraded to adjustable QA1 shocks. The Bilsteins I had were the RCD 55-R092 shocks. I think these will fit a large range of years and models.

"Smooth street shock"...? Buy the cheapest piece of shi, shock you can find.. it will be so smooth you won't even know it's there... Most people simply don't know that a proper performance shock is about 'refinement', 'better control' of the suspension movements. Not just harder or harsh. A...

Your reasoning doesn't add up.... you're worried about headers, so you still rather chose for the big bulky castiron factory lump, instead of the smaller Borgeson P/S box...?

I drive with 7 leafs per side in my '73 Dart.

I would be fairly certain to say some of the cambolts are still loose indeed. And, you installed a new subframe and all, but why is everything else still so rusty? Personally, I would take apart most of the suspension, slap some paint on all the linkage and stuff, and 'then' get an alignment.

This is just a guessing game. Why not show pics of your install under the car. Linkage and stuff. Left and right.